Lesage Tissue Patterns from the 1950’s

June F. Mohler Library, Kent State University

In addition to the 19 sketches attributed to Colette Lesage, 14 numbered patterns and 17 un-numbered ones
were in the box of items donated to the Library from Martha’s, Inc. This chart is a brief analysis of the tissue patterns.

Pattern Number

Description

Garment Sketch

Other Notations

30.778

Skirt with placement lines indicated for embroidery

No

Blue/Black Embroidery … Photo of sample

Summer 1951

30.809

Shaped band with curved placement lines for embroidery

No

Summer 1951

Photo of embroidery sample

30.938

Embroidery pattern for cherries on stalks with leaves

No

Summer 1951

No sample

31.001

Sketch on tissue of asymmetrical draped bodice with beaded long full skirt and a large sheet of tissue with embroidery designs

Yes

Also attached by a straight pin is a scrap of muslin in which are two black beads

31.006

Tissue sketch with two bodice pattern pieces. The embroidery design is with seashells.

Yes

Winter 1951-52

No sample

31.038

Tissue sketch and the skirt embroidery pattern. The dress is strapless and with a fitted bodice. The skirt descends to the floor in tiers.

Yes

Winter 1951-52

No sample

31.038

Left and right bodice pattern pieces

No

After the 31.051 is "ou 67" or "an 67"

Winter 1951-52

31.957

Seashell bodice pattern

No

Entire bodice pattern has a free-hand grid

32.651

Skirt and bodice patterns…V neck bodice fitted with double darts to waist seam. Skirt is full and darted to fit at waist.

Yes

This pattern design and number matches to the Colette illustration of the same garment. Tagliani 401 is also on the sketch.

32.677

Appears to be a complete garment pattern…V neck and full skirt although the total assembly is complex. 4 bodice and 2 skirt pieces.

No

The word "Fath" is beside the number on the pattern and, on the outside of the folded pattern, in red, is "Reg. 024." All writing is by hand. Stamped with Albert Lesage and Made in France blue stamps. Winter 1955-56. No sample.

 

 

 

Pattern Number

Description

Garment Sketch

Other Notations

32.807

Skirt with bands…one large sheet of tissue

No

Summer 1956. No sample

32.816

5 skirt panels on three sheets of tissue. Embroidery band at bottom of skirt.

No

Summer 1956

No sample.

32.819

6 pattern pieces with similar fitted bodice that extends to high waist and full skirt panels darted to fit the waist. Embroidery at hemline and top of bodice.

No

One of these pieces is numbered. The other pieces were put with it because of embroidery pattern and garment design. The other pieces were originally numbered KSU.001.P

33.128

Front and back bodice pieces. All over embroidery.

No

Summer 1957

33.142

Front and back bodice pieces. All over embroidery. Tissue disintegrating.

No

Summer 1957

KSU.001.P

6 pattern pieces. Bodice with embroidery. Midriff with embroidery. Skirt is full with multiple darts at waist and embroidery bands at hemline

No

Later exploration linked these pieces with another tissue piece labeled 32.819

KSU.002.P

Semicircle of approximately 19"x31" small leaves and flowers

No

 

KSU.003.P

Semicircle of floral motif. Tissue disintegrating.

No

 

KSU.004.P

Semicircle floral similar to KSU.003.P

No

 

KSU.005.P

3 dancing figures of different sizes

No

 

KSU.006.P

Strapless bodice with large dart to waist…seashell design

No

 

KSU.007.P

Scoop neck and sleeveless bodice with overall embroidery

No

Does this go with Colette illustration 33.147?

KSU.008.P

Full-length front and back pieces with double fishtail darts on each and strapless. Embroidery does a vertical semicircle in front on one side.

No

"Reg. 130" written in red. Albert Lesage & Cie stamp and Made in France stamp in blue.

KSU.009.P

V neck bodice with embroidery at neck edge

No

 

KSU.010.P

Basic bodice front and back, sleeve and band.

No

 

KSU.011.P

Bodice front and back and skirt … covered with blue and white floral markings for embroidery

No

Tissue is disintegrating.

KSU.012.P

Many bodice and skirt pieces…cannot unfold due to age

No

 

Pattern Number

Description

Garment Sketch

Other Notations

KSU.013.P

Bodice, skirt and band with sequin placements

No

Diagonal lines throughout pieces

KSU.014.P

Embroidery band

No

 

KSU.015.P

Tissue sketch of a beaded bodice with is scalloped at the top edge and attached to a plain skirt.

Yes (on tissue)

Writing on this one is in English…all others have no English on them except the "Made in France" stamp.

KSU.016

Tissue with three sketches on it. One is an asymmetrical design with embroidery, one is strapless with embroidery on bodice and on oversized pockets. This one is repeated with a bolero jacket version.

Yes (on tissue)

No writing at all on this one.


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