Bissonnette on Costume
Geographic Search: Central Asia
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
Kent State University Museum
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Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Samarkand, mid 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp, cotton weft ikat (adras, ishtope, or dagir)
Neck to hem: 52"/132.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 58½"/148.6 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1987

Bright pink pomegranate motifs with green and purple amulets with pendants, surrounded by abstracted floral motifs in yellow, on a white ground. Red silk embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and gathered skirt. Unlined. The sheen from the beating and polishing of the cloth is still perceptible.

 

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Man's or Woman's Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, late 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Collar to hem: 49½"/127.7 cm, cuff to cuff: 68"/172.7 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1988

Dovetailing triangular geometric motifs in grayish-pink (ground color), yellow, raspberry, purple and blue. Decorative embroidery in white thread in a swirling pattern at top sleeve. Multi-colored cotton thread embroidery at waist level. Needlepoint embroidery at collar possibly done by the Lakai tribe. Waist closure with narrow woven red and green braid and beaded tassels. Unlined.

 

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Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, late 19th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Neck to hem: 49"/124.5 cm, cuff to cuff: 58¾"/149.3 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1989

Geometric "Tashkent ball" motifs in purple, bright pink, and yellow, surrounded by the same color boteh (paisley) motifs, on a grayish-pink ground. Red silk embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and gathered skirt. Russian printed cotton patches at the back with yellow boteh (paisley) motifs on a red ground. Unlined.

 

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Front Detail
Back Detail

Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, late 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Neck to hem: 52"/132.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 58¼"/148 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1990

Peach colored (ground fabric) abstracted floral, boteh (paisley) and amulet with pendants motifs, on a plum colored background. Slits parallel to cuffs on sleeves. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in Russian ivory cotton with printed floral motifs and with adras ikat with bright pink, yellow, purple, raspberry and blue motifs on a white ground.

 

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Man's or Woman's Chapan or Khalat Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, late 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Neck to hem: 40½"/102.9 cm, cuff to cuff: 52¾"/134 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1991

Geometric "Tashkent ball" motifs in bright pink, yellow and blue, surrounded by blue boteh (paisley) and purple amulet with pendants motifs, on a grayish-pink ground. Padded and quilted vertically.  Decorative embroidery in a serpentine design at neck and wrists with additional leaf pattern enclosed in a border row of diamonds at the wrists. Lined in red and white striped Indian cotton.

 

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Front Detail
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Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, late 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Neck to hem: 49¼"/125.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 57¼"/145.4 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1992

Bekasab or bekasam fabric of purple and gray stripes with triangular geometric motifs
dovetailing in between. Motifs of grayish-pink (ground color), yellow, bright pink and purple.
Lime green and pink embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and gathered
skirt and above the side slits with an additional yellow thread. Padded and quilted. Lined in
Russian red cotton with green boteh (paisley) motifs and bordered with adras ikat with bright
pink, yellow, green and purple on a white ground.

 

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Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Bukhara, c.1860s
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp, cotton weft ikat (adras, ishtope, or dagir)
Neck to hem: 47½"/120.7 cm, cuff to cuff: 56"/142.2 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1993

Rare indigo dyed ikat with grayish-white (ground color) and yellow abstracted floral motifs and pink dashes.  Underarm gussets in orange/pink and purple/orange adras ikat. Pink, purple and yellow embroidery above side slits. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in several Russian cotton printed fabrics with stripes as well as floral and boteh (paisley) motifs.

 

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Back Textile

Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, possibly from Samarkand, mid to late 19th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp, cotton weft ikat (adras, ishtope, or dagir)
Neck to hem: 52"/132.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 54¼"/137.8 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1994

The purple tulip-shaped motifs surround a light green stylized cypress, or tree-of-life core. Filling the space between decorative fields are patches striped yellow and red on a white ground. Emerging from the tulip end is an abstracted scorpion shape. Red silk embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and gathered skirt. Unlined. The sheen from the beating and polishing of the cloth is still perceptible.

 

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Front Detail
Back Detail

Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, city of Bukhara, late 19th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp, cotton weft ikat (adras, ishtope, or dagir)
Neck to hem: 46 ½"/118.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 55¼"/140.3 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.901

Abstracted floral, boteh (paisley) and comb patterns in green and pink, on a white ground. Red silk embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and side panels and above the side slits. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in red Russian cotton with printed floral motifs and striped cottons.

 

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Back Detail

Woman's Munisak Robe
Uzbekistan, city of Bukhara, second half of the 19th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Neck to hem: 47"/119.4 cm, cuff to cuff: 55"/139.7 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.903

Geometric "Tashkent ball" motifs in yellow, blue and two shades of bright pink, green comb motifs and a dovetailing purple section with an orange serpentine motif with pink and blue dots inside, on a grayish-pink ground. Metallic woven borders at wrists. Green embroidery under the sleeves at the junction of the bodice and side panels and above side slits. Red cotton piece in back. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in printed cotton with white stripes and small flowers on burgundy ground and with purple silk.

 

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Man's Robe
Probably from Afghanistan, late 19th to mid 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Red and white silk warp, red cotton weft
Collar to hem: 53½"/135.9 cm, cuff to cuff: 77"/195.6 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1986.97.3

Red and white alacha (striped robe) with applied zhiak (polychrome woven border). Lined in red Russian cotton with printed floral motifs and with red and yellow adras ikat on white ground. Given to Shannon Rodgers in London, England, by an Iranian princess.

 

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Front Detail
Back Detail

Man's or Woman's Chapan or Khalat Robe
Uzbekistan or Afghanistan, late 19th to early 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave
Silk warp and weft ikat (abr, kanaous, or shabi)
Collar to hem: 52"/138.1 cm, cuff to cuff: 71¼"/181 cm
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1992.55.13

Dovetailing triangular geometric motifs in grayish-pink (ground color), yellow, raspberry, purple and blue. Decorative embroidery in a border row of diamonds on the collar, front openings, hem and wrists. Yellow, purple, pink and green embroidery above side slits. Padded and quilted vertically. Lined in Russian cotton with red leaves and branches on a white ground.

 

For more detailed information on Central Asian garments, please visit the website of the exhibition
Kaleidoscopic Dreamcoats: Central Asian Ikat Robes
Revised 12/21/2001

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Copyright © 2001 Anne Bissonnette. All Rights Reserved.