Bissonnette on Costume
Geographic Search: China |
Anne Bissonnette,
Curator
Kent State University Museum |
|
|
|
China, 19th-century
Blue silk robe with li-shu border, couched gold threads and
multi-colored silk floss
embroidery of dragons, bats and clouds.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.760
This robe is
embroidered with the traditional terrestrial diagram design.
The multi-colored diagonal bands and gold spirals near the hem represent
the universal ocean. On the central axis is an abstract mountain
signifying the earth. Above are the heavens, inhabited, it was thought,
by dragons. The extra-long sleeves, often worn with the cuffs turned
back, are embroidered with phoenixes and bats, auspicious symbols
in China. The shape of this robe indicates that it was worn by a
native, or Han, Chinese person and not by a Manchu, a member of
the foreigh ruling aristocracy.
|
|
|
Front
|
Back
|
Front
Detail
|
Back
Detail
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
China, early
19th century
Taoist Robe of brown damask ground with roundel motifs. Large
center back appliqué panel, center front openings and hems embroidered
with couched gold and multicolored silk threads.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1939
"Tao
can be roughly translated into English as path, or "the way".
It "refers to a power which envelopes, surrounds and flows through
all things, living and non-living. It embodies the harmony of
opposites (i.e. there would be no love without hate, no light
without dark, no male without female.). The founder of Taoism
was Lao-Tse (604-531 BCE), a contemporary of Confucius. He was
searching for a way that would avoid the constant feudal warfare
and other conflicts that disrupted life during his lifetime.
Taoism started as a combination of psychology and philosophy but
evolved into a religion in 440 CE when it was adopted as a state
religion in China along with Buddhism and Confucianism. With the
end of the Ch'ing Dynasty in 1911, state support for Taoism ended.
Much of the Taoist heritage was destroyed during the next period
of warlordism. After the Communist victory in 1949, religious
freedom was severely restricted. The new government put monks
to manual labor, confiscated temples, and plundered treasured.
Several million monks were reduced to fewer than 50,000 by 1960.
During the cultural revolution in China from 1966 to 1976, much
of the remaining Taoist heritage was destroyed. Some religious
tolerance has been restored under Deng Xiao-ping from 1982 to
the present time.
Tthe are
currently about 20 million Taoist followers who are primarily
centered in Taiwan. About 30,000 Taoists live in North America.
Taoism has had a significant impact on North American culture
in areas of acupuncture, herbalism, holistic medicine, medication
and martial arts."
This information
on Taoism was taken from The Ontario Consultants on Religious
Tolerance's web page at http://www.religioustolerance.org/taoism.htm.
For further information on Taoism and other religions please log-in
to their home page.
|
|
|
|
|
China, late
17th-early 18th-century
Tibetan-ized robe in orange silk brocaded with dragons, clouds
and phoenix. Sleeves of pale pink silk brocaded with roundels
motifs filled with gold dragons. Center-front opening with multi-colored
fringed hem. Inscription in Tibetan.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM
1985.1.764
|
-
|
|
Front
|
Front
Detail
|
 |
 |
|
|
China, late
19th-century
Man's robe of gold colored brocaded robe with roundel motifs lined
with lynx.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.765
|
-
|
|
|
|
China, 19th
century
Robe of ivory silk embroidered with large tree, eagle, small birds,
blossoms and floral motifs.
Kent
State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers
Collection
KSUM
1985.1.772
|
-
|
|
|
|
China, 19th-century
Man's summer tunic in midnight blue silk gauze with ivory silk
collar, center front openings and hem with embroidered naturalistic
scenes.
Kent
State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers
Collection
KSUM
1985.1.777
|
-
|
|
|
|
China, 19th-century.
Man's tunic in rust colored silk satin with blue elvet brocaded
roundels. Embroidered collar, sleeves and hem with embroidered
naturalistic scenes.
Kent State
University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.779
|
-
|
|
Front
|
Front
Detail
|
 |
 |
|
|
China, 19th-century
Man's winter rank robe of purple colored silk satin quilted and
lined with ermine fur. Embroidered rank badges are applied in
the center front and back.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.815
|
-
|
| Revised
08/19/05 |
|
|