Bissonnette on Costume
Geographic Search: China |
Anne Bissonnette,
Curator
Kent State University Museum |
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Womans
Semi-formal Robe
China, 19th-century
Blue silk robe with li-shu border, couched gold threads and
multi-colored silk floss
embroidery of dragons, bats and clouds.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.760
This robe is
embroidered with the traditional terrestrial diagram design.
The multi-colored diagonal bands and gold spirals near the hem represent
the universal ocean. On the central axis is an abstract mountain
signifying the earth. Above are the heavens, inhabited, it was thought,
by dragons. The extra-long sleeves, often worn with the cuffs turned
back, are embroidered with phoenixes and bats, auspicious symbols
in China. The shape of this robe indicates that it was worn by a
native, or Han, Chinese person and not by a Manchu, a member of
the foreigh ruling aristocracy.
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Taoist Robe
China, early 19th century
Taoist Robe of brown damask ground with roundel motifs. Large
center back appliqué panel, center front openings and hems embroidered
with couched gold and multicolored silk threads.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1939
"Tao
can be roughly translated into English as path, or "the way".
It "refers to a power which envelopes, surrounds and flows through
all things, living and non-living. It embodies the harmony of
opposites (i.e. there would be no love without hate, no light
without dark, no male without female.). The founder of Taoism
was Lao-Tse (604-531 BCE), a contemporary of Confucius. He was
searching for a way that would avoid the constant feudal warfare
and other conflicts that disrupted life during his lifetime.
Taoism started as a combination of psychology and philosophy but
evolved into a religion in 440 CE when it was adopted as a state
religion in China along with Buddhism and Confucianism. With the
end of the Ch'ing Dynasty in 1911, state support for Taoism ended.
Much of the Taoist heritage was destroyed during the next period
of warlordism. After the Communist victory in 1949, religious
freedom was severely restricted. The new government put monks
to manual labor, confiscated temples, and plundered treasured.
Several million monks were reduced to fewer than 50,000 by 1960.
During the cultural revolution in China from 1966 to 1976, much
of the remaining Taoist heritage was destroyed. Some religious
tolerance has been restored under Deng Xiao-ping from 1982 to
the present time.
Tthe are
currently about 20 million Taoist followers who are primarily
centered in Taiwan. About 30,000 Taoists live in North America.
Taoism has had a significant impact on North American culture
in areas of acupuncture, herbalism, holistic medicine, medication
and martial arts."
This information
on Taoism was taken from The Ontario Consultants on Religious
Tolerance's web page at http://www.religioustolerance.org/taoism.htm.
For further information on Taoism and other religions please log-in
to their home page.
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Mans
Informal Coat Tibetan style
China, late 17th-early 18th-century
Tibetan-ized robe in orange silk brocaded with dragons, clouds
and phoenix. Sleeves of pale pink silk brocaded with roundels
motifs filled with gold dragons. Center-front opening with multi-colored
fringed hem. Inscription in Tibetan.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM
1985.1.764
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Mans
Informal Coat Tibetan style
China, late
19th-century
Man's robe of gold colored brocaded robe with roundel motifs lined
with lynx.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.765
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China, 19th
century
Robe of ivory silk embroidered with large tree, eagle, small birds,
blossoms and floral motifs.
Kent
State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers
Collection
KSUM
1985.1.772
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Han Woman's
Summer Informal Domestic Coat
China, 19th-century
Pale blue satin embroidered in multicolored silk threads.
Shown with a pair of woman's leggings of beige silk figured with
butterflies and embroidered in blue.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.777 (coat); .2117ab (leggings)
This coat
has overall garden vignettes of pavilions and flowering branches.
Figures enjoying the delights of the garden are found on the borders.
The neck of the coat has an applied cloud collar, yun jian, originally
worn by Han women on formal or official occasions. The coat bands
show figures participating in many of the pastimes described in
The Story of the Stone.
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Han Woman's
Manchu Style Informal Domestic Coat
China, 19th-century.
Red brown silk satin ground with blue velvet roundels of iris;
cloud collar applied at the neckline.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.779
The borders
of white silk are embroidered with garden vignettes; a cloud collar
is applied at the neckline. The figures are curious: they might
be gods or immortals, or characters in other stories. Note the
man on the back of the collar surrounded by fire.
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Mans
Winter Outer Rank Coat (pu fu)
China, 19th-century
Man's winter rank robe of purple colored silk satin quilted and
lined with ermine fur. Embroidered rank badges are applied in
the center front and back.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.815
Rank badge
with the highest military rank, the qilin, an auspicious
creature with a dragons head, scaly body and elegant deers
legs.
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| Revised
08/19/05 |
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