Bissonnette on Costume
Geographic Search: China
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
Kent State University Museum
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China, 19th-century
Blue silk robe with li-shu border, couched gold threads and multi-colored silk floss
embroidery of dragons, bats and clouds.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.760

This robe is embroidered with the traditional terrestrial diagram design.
The multi-colored diagonal bands and gold spirals near the hem represent the universal ocean. On the central axis is an abstract mountain signifying the earth. Above are the heavens, inhabited, it was thought, by dragons. The extra-long sleeves, often worn with the cuffs turned back, are embroidered with phoenixes and bats, auspicious symbols in China. The shape of this robe indicates that it was worn by a native, or Han, Chinese person and not by a Manchu, a member of the foreigh ruling aristocracy.

 

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China, early 19th century
Taoist Robe of brown damask ground with roundel motifs. Large center back appliqué panel, center front openings and hems embroidered with couched gold and multicolored silk threads.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.1939

"Tao can be roughly translated into English as path, or "the way". It "refers to a power which envelopes, surrounds and flows through all things, living and non-living. It embodies the harmony of opposites (i.e. there would be no love without hate, no light without dark, no male without female.). The founder of Taoism was Lao-Tse (604-531 BCE), a contemporary of Confucius. He was searching for a way that would avoid the constant feudal warfare and other conflicts that disrupted life during his lifetime.

Taoism started as a combination of psychology and philosophy but evolved into a religion in 440 CE when it was adopted as a state religion in China along with Buddhism and Confucianism. With the end of the Ch'ing Dynasty in 1911, state support for Taoism ended. Much of the Taoist heritage was destroyed during the next period of warlordism. After the Communist victory in 1949, religious freedom was severely restricted. The new government put monks to manual labor, confiscated temples, and plundered treasured. Several million monks were reduced to fewer than 50,000 by 1960. During the cultural revolution in China from 1966 to 1976, much of the remaining Taoist heritage was destroyed. Some religious tolerance has been restored under Deng Xiao-ping from 1982 to the present time.

Tthe are currently about 20 million Taoist followers who are primarily centered in Taiwan. About 30,000 Taoists live in North America. Taoism has had a significant impact on North American culture in areas of acupuncture, herbalism, holistic medicine, medication and martial arts."

This information on Taoism was taken from The Ontario Consultants on Religious Tolerance's web page at http://www.religioustolerance.org/taoism.htm. For further information on Taoism and other religions please log-in to their home page.

 

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China, late 17th-early 18th-century
Tibetan-ized robe in orange silk brocaded with dragons, clouds and phoenix. Sleeves of pale pink silk brocaded with roundels motifs filled with gold dragons. Center-front opening with multi-colored fringed hem. Inscription in Tibetan.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.764

 

 
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China, late 19th-century
Man's robe of gold colored brocaded robe with roundel motifs lined with lynx.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.765

 

 
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China, 19th century
Robe of ivory silk embroidered with large tree, eagle, small birds, blossoms and floral motifs.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.772

 

 
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China, 19th-century
Man's summer tunic in midnight blue silk gauze with ivory silk collar, center front openings and hem with embroidered naturalistic scenes.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.777

 

 
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China, 19th-century.
Man's tunic in rust colored silk satin with blue elvet brocaded roundels. Embroidered collar, sleeves and hem with embroidered naturalistic scenes.

Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.779

 

 
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China, 19th-century
Man's winter rank robe of purple colored silk satin quilted and lined with ermine fur. Embroidered rank badges are applied in the center front and back.
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1985.1.815

 

Revised 08/19/05

 

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