In contrast to the folksy atmosphere of other grass-roots movements, a highly polished and urban style was also developed in the 1970s. Propelled in part by technological developments in the textile field, minimalist styles of American sportswear designers such as Halston and Calvin Klein, and the dance style and music found in celebrated dance clubs such as New York's Studio 54, urban chic became entrenched as a new mode of social behavior.

In an era of personal freedom, gender redefinition, and sub-cultural influences, new styles emerged tinted by a wide variety of influences but mostly removed from any direct political message. When Giorgio di Sant' Angelo and Halston used tie-dye or Hanae Mori drew from her Japanese heritage to design influential textile prints, there were no anti-conformist messages to be found. Although influenced by the comfort, mass appeal and oddities of other existing styles, exclusivity, high price and name recognition were of utmost importance.