The Artistry of Adrian:
Hollywood's Celebrated Design Innovator

Paige Palmer and Mull Galleries
      
Second Rotation: April 25 to August 31, 2003
First Presented: June 5, 2002, to November 17, 2002
  

Noel Palomo-Lovinski
Guest-Curator

From 1928 to 1941 Gilbert Adrian, or Adrian as he was commonly known, designed costumes for all of MGM's important female roles. The designer did not work on any men's costumes, relegating them instead to his assistants. He had a large comfortable costume building on the lot that housed his office, fitting rooms and the seamstresses that were employed to execute his designs. Adrian configured the fitting room with mirrors in a large semi-circle to allow the actress to view herself from every angle with the same lighting that would be used on set. After reading a proposed script, Adrian prepared a rough sketch of his idea, and then draped on added and shaped mannequin created to reflect the actresses' exact measurements. Once satisfied, Adrian would re-sketch the garment and present it to the actress and then to Louis B. Mayer, head of MGM.

Adrian was successful in his movie career for a variety of reasons. He recognized that the dress must support and reinforce the character the actress is trying to establish by utilizing a variety of metaphors. The costume must be dramatic yet not overwhelm the actress, consequently, Adrian used simplified silhouettes with the emphasis around the face. As Joan Crawford commented: "Adrian had a profound effect…on my professional life…He taught me so much about drama. He said nothing must detract. Everything must be made simple, simple, simple. Just your face must emerge. He made me conscious of simplicity." (Lavine) Adrian was keenly aware that the actress had a persona that fans were attached to and which needed to be reinforced. Adrian was also accomplished in gaining the star's admiration and trust. Like an artful politician, he approached each star differently to get the best reaction. Crawford could be temperamental and was often distracted when choosing costumes. Adrian sketched all the costume proposals in her favorite color blue, to expedite a decision. (Lee) Garbo regarded stylish clothes as a nuisance and was quickly bored in fittings. Adrian appealed to her sense of humor in as many ways as possible to keep her attention. The designer was known by all that he worked with to be a close confidant, non judgmental and always professional and friendly.

Movie magazines often interviewed Adrian on his design strategies for the stars, his method for approaching a movie, and how to best interpret these styles into every day wear. Adrian felt that Norma Shearer, with all her figure challenges, was "every woman's ideal". "Norma Shearer is a conservative type with a flair for originality, which is consistently interesting and safe for other women to follow. She looks best in sports and tailored clothes." (Ladies Home Journal, 1932) He also encouraged women to find their own style by simplifying the styles of the stars. "It is much more important for a woman to dress her personality than her body. So many women have personalities other than their bodies; so many women feel like they would adore to look like Garbo but are really more like Shearer. They should consider their inner as well as their exterior selves and dress the combination." (Ladies Home Journal, 1932)