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Exhibition
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The Artistry of Adrian:
Hollywood's Celebrated Design Innovator
Second Rotation:
April 25 to August 31, 2003
First Presented: June 5, 2002, to November 17, 2002
Noel Palomo-Lovinski, Guest-Curator
The Retail Years: War Time
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Two-piece
skirt suit of mustard yellow wool
Label: Adrian Original
c.1944-1949, United States of America
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mrs. Rex Bartlett through Joseph Simms
KSUM 1984.23.31ab
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Adrian revisited
his basic design concepts in an infinite variety of ways, the predominant
one being a suit with a strong shoulder and narrow hips. The suit
has been a staple for men's wear in the same basic format for the
entire 20th century because of its functionality. The suit's shape
expresses power and strength by widening the shoulders. The flattening
of the entire mid section provides a streamlined appearance. The
lady's suit had not been made to resemble a man's suit in shape
quite as much as during WWII and was a result of expressing feminine
strength in times of war as much as fabric limitations. All jackets
could be no longer than 23" which would account for all these
suits being the same basic shape.
The designer
did not like to design with trends in mind and preferred to rely
on a design philosophy, which was to create excellently tailored
garments that served a woman's needs. Every detail on these jackets
is calculated to provide a solution to a perceived figure flaw.
Many of these solutions were perfected on the Hollywood actresses
he worked with who had ample hips, long waists or short legs. Adrian
believed that daytime fashions should not change season to season
and that if a solution worked it should be revisited and perfected.
As Adrian declared in a Vogue interview: "It is easy for a
designer to create unusual and amusing new clothes with a certain
shock value
the difficulty is in restraint." (Photoplay
Magazine, 1935)
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