Exhibition

  

   
   
The Artistry of Adrian:
Hollywood's Celebrated Design Innovator
   

Second Rotation: April 25 to August 31, 2003
First Presented: June 5, 2002, to November 17, 2002
Noel Palomo-Lovinski, Guest-Curator

   

The Retail Years: War Time

 


Two-piece skirt suit of grayish-brown wool
with the gradual color change and horizontal stripes
Label: Adrian Original
c.1941-1945, United States of America
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mrs. W.Paul Bigler
KSUM 1985.26.2ab

Since the use of metals and buttons were severely restricted, Adrian used self-ties as closures. The faux pocket placement helps to widen the shoulder. The large pocket at the hip is practical yet also serves to subtly widen the hips so that an hourglass silhouette is achieved.
       

 

  
Two-piece skirt suit of mustard yellow wool
Label: Adrian Original
c.1944-1949, United States of America
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mrs. Rex Bartlett through Joseph Simms
KSUM 1984.23.31ab
  

 

  
Two-piece skirt suit in light brown wool with applied buckle details
Label: Adrian Original
late 1940s, United States of America
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mrs. W.Paul Bigler
KSUM 1985.26.3ab

The suit was and continues to be primarily associated with masculine dress. Adrian was interested in giving women the strength and functionality that is characteristic in the suit yet recognized that women wanted to feel feminine. He used a masculine looking fabric and designed the high collar and lapel to augment the width of the shoulders. The inset faux belt straps form a womanly shape which immediately make the power inherent in the suit uniquely feminine.

      

 

  
Two-piece skirt suit in black wool with decorative inset bands
curving across the bodice of the jacket
Label: Adrian Original
mid to late 1940s, United States of America
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mrs. Rowena MacBride
KSUM 1992.53.4ab
   
The complex series of inset bands on this jacket would be extremely labor intensive and expensive to produce yet would have fit within the confines of L-85 restrictions. Adrian was not interested in making affordable clothing for everyone. He felt instead that women wanted beautiful clothing to lift their spirits against difficult times.
      

 

    
Two-piece skirt suit of gray, pale red and blue stripped wool
Label: Adrian Original
c.1942-1949, United States of America
Kent State University Museum

Gift of Mrs. W. Paul Bigler
KSUM 1985.26.1ab
  

 

  
Two-piece skirt suit in light and dark gray wool
Attributed to Adrian (label missing)
c.1943-1944, United States of America
Kent State University Museum

Gift of Mr. Joseph Simms
KSUM 1984.23.1ab
     

 

Adrian revisited his basic design concepts in an infinite variety of ways, the predominant one being a suit with a strong shoulder and narrow hips. The suit has been a staple for men's wear in the same basic format for the entire 20th century because of its functionality. The suit's shape expresses power and strength by widening the shoulders. The flattening of the entire mid section provides a streamlined appearance. The lady's suit had not been made to resemble a man's suit in shape quite as much as during WWII and was a result of expressing feminine strength in times of war as much as fabric limitations. All jackets could be no longer than 23" which would account for all these suits being the same basic shape.

The designer did not like to design with trends in mind and preferred to rely on a design philosophy, which was to create excellently tailored garments that served a woman's needs. Every detail on these jackets is calculated to provide a solution to a perceived figure flaw. Many of these solutions were perfected on the Hollywood actresses he worked with who had ample hips, long waists or short legs. Adrian believed that daytime fashions should not change season to season and that if a solution worked it should be revisited and perfected. As Adrian declared in a Vogue interview: "It is easy for a designer to create unusual and amusing new clothes with a certain shock value…the difficulty is in restraint." (Photoplay Magazine, 1935)

 


  
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