White Muslin Gown
with Embroidered Hem
and Yellow Silk Suspenders
Unknown maker and place of origin, ca. 1826-1827.
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.31abcd
Worn with:
Ivory Kid Slip-on Shoes
Made by L. Robinson & Co., 108 Market Street, Philadelphia, ca.
1820s-1830s.
Lent by the Helen Clark Ward Costume Collection,
Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin, Ohio.
Gift of Mary M. Hobbs, 1949
KSUM L1995.17.609ab (49.424)
The bright
yellow suspenders of this gown are quite different from the saturated
yet duller shade of the shawl worn in the previous
gown or the gentleman's trousers on the next
mount. It's lemony color might indicate the dye source to
be quercitron (citron means lemon in French), a new vegetable
dye patented in 1799 by Edward Bancroft, a scientist and double
agent hired as a spy by both the British government and Benjamin
Franklin before the Revolutionary War.(1)
________
(1) "Edward
Bancroft Scientist/Spy," Who2?, http://www.who2.com/edwardbancroft.html
(accessced February 24, 2005).