|
In the complex
system of nineteenth-century politeness, social visits were
usually paid in the afternoon. Once outside the house, hats
and gloves were required and were not usually removed until
one's return. Whether you stayed in to receive your guests or
ventured out, a plethora of gowns were available for you to
pick from. As the century passed some styles were abandoned
while others were created. It is often hard to differentiate
the early carriage and promenade dress types from the walking
suits of the last quarter of the century. One must often look
at the other types of dress from the same period to find that
the walking suit did not have a train like other day dresses.
The slightly shorter skirt provided easier movement, a detail
that was not relevant earlier in the century when all but the
evening gowns were hemmed several inches above the floor.
A wide selection
of coats and capes were also available for outside day time
wear. To adapt to changing temperatures in and out the home,
shawls were very useful. Throughout the century, these textiles
were highly appreciated and often worn regardless of the weather
as they could serve as an excellent outward sign of one's wealth.
Early in the century, one could pay for a shawl imported from
Kashmir the equivalent of what we spend on luxury cars today.
As the bourgeois aesthetic became established at the
beginning of the nineteenth century, men's clothes ceased to
display the same degree of splendor that had been theirs and
women's fashions became the venue for conspicuous display.
During the
last quarter of the century, a new type of interior gown appeared
that was to be worn by the hostess of five o'clock tea. Tea
gowns exhibited early and consistently abundant signs of historicism.
These one-piece gowns were often characterized by the presence
of "Watteau pleats", the draped back pleats set at
the shoulders found on the eighteenth-century robe à
la française. As the century progressed, these elaborate
and often exotic tea gowns began to meld with other dinner and
evening styles. By the turn of the century, tea gowns could
be worn as reception gowns, which were characterized by their
long sleeves and deeper necklines appropriate for less formal
late afternoon, early evening events.
|