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Rules of
appropriateness did not change drastically for evening wear
in the nineteenth century. In general, the more formal the occasion,
the more a woman's chest and arms were uncovered. Although a
hierarchy existed in terms of social events, the evening or
"full" dress was characterized with the presence of
shorter sleeves and deeper necklines.
By the second
half of the nineteenth century, a large amount of fabric was
consumed to create billowing and/or draped skirts and, to maximize
on their investment in costly textiles, skirts were often accompanied
with several bodices that would be appropriate for different
times of day and evening. These robes à transformation
would feature varying lengths of sleeve, depths of décolletage,
and levels of ornamentation, the most scant and elaborate being
the opera bodice.
Accompanied
with equally elaborate capes, coats and wraps, evening styles
were usually accessorized with long gloves, cloth or kid slippers
and a lady's best jewelry. In the second part of the nineteenth
century trains were also obligatory in full dress. In all evening
styles the fan, whose construction and language were refined
in the eighteenth century, was an important mean of subtle amorous
communication.
Within evening
events, the fancy dress ball was a popular form of entertainment.
Although New York's Vanderbilt and Bradley-Martin costume balls
were the epitome of grandeur and conspicuous consumption, fancy
dress balls were events enjoyed in the upper middle classes
as well. Where the wealthy would commission Paris couturiers
to create their masquerade costumes, other suppliers included
home sewers, professional dressmakers, ready-made costume shops,
costume rental companies and mail order houses.
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