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This exhibition
examines the variety of garments that were appropriate to wear
in different surroundings and times of day in the nineteenth
century by women who followed fashion and lived a life of leisure.
The nineteenth-century witnessed the propagation of periodicals
aimed at a wide array of individuals and social classes on both
the European and American continents. Within different types
of publications, the fashion plate was found to be a popular
feature that informed audiences of the changes in styles and
was also partially responsible for the dissemination of certain
genres. These plates became an important mode of communication
that helped codify existing rules and regulations regarding
how garments were to be worn and in what surroundings they were
suitable.
The women
depicted in the fashion plates were not the same as those targeted
by today's fashion industry. Instead of the pre-pubescent ideal,
the wife and mother
was the glorified role model. Body types depicted illustrated
this difference well: in keeping with female anatomy, hips,
bellies and buttocks were much admired and necessary to attain
the fashionable silhouette, as was the bearing of a generous
bosom. These components helped to create the illusion of a smaller
waist, which was also made possible by the wearing of corsets.
Although literature abound describing the horrors of tight-lacing,
we must remember that, as is the case today, some people succumb
to societal pressures, but not all victimized themselves to
an unhealthy degree. Will future generations think we all dieted
ourselves to death due to the massive amount of literature dedicated
to this subject? Where the nineteenth-century woman used an
external aid to achieve a matronly figure, today's population
has internalized the process to achieve the ideal silhouette.
With the
societal changes that followed the industrial revolution, the
middle classes gained greater access to leisurely activities
and life-styles. Where European nobility had dictated the codes
and organization of social functions in previous centuries,
wealth instead of birth enabled individuals from the upper middle
class to participate in these activities. Although women still
represented a large percentage of the middle and lower class
workforce, fashion plates were aimed at those individuals that
had attained the much sought-after life of leisure.
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