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With over
a dozen different garments that one would wear in a day to be
appropriately dressed for the occasion, a life of leisure was
one that could be extremely costly. In addition to garment changes,
the quality of the textiles used and how up-to-date they were
with the current trends spoke volumes to the nineteenth-century
viewer. Although this major focus is no longer part of our lives
and the boundaries and rules of dress are shifting, the codes
of appropriateness are still with us to a certain degree: garments
meant for exercising, working or evening gala events are usually
not interchangeable.
The sphere
of public and private varied from our own and was detectable
through fit: morning garments with less silhouette definition
such as peignoirs, were not meant to be worn outside
the confine of one's bedroom or boudoir. Once outside this realm,
an interior gown or wrapper with greater silhouette definition
could be worn in the home. As a general rule, silhouette definition
increased with exposure to others. Even in the case of many
interior and day gowns worn during pregnancy, a system of back
or side lacing placed in the inner structure of the gowns provided
a certain amount of fit and enabled current styles to be adapted
for the purpose and worn afterwards. Interior gowns and wrappers
were seldom created purposely for maternity wear and were an
important part of a woman's wardrobe.
Unless ill
or bedridden, women would change into day dresses as the morning
progressed. After the first three decades of the century, higher
necklines and long sleeves characterized day dresses. To cover
the lower necklines of these early gowns, bertha or pelerine
collars were worn to venture outside the home. Exercise was
also a morning activity performed two or three hours after sunrise
in order to avoid the unhealthy effect of the morning or evening
dew or the blazing sun's effect on the complexion. As stated
by the author of Regency Etiquette: The Mirror of Graces
(1811) "exercise in the open air
may be almost always
obtained, either on horseback or on foot, in fine weather; and
when that is denied, in a carriage. Country air in the fields,
or in the gardens, when breathed at proper hours, is the finest
bracer of the nerves, and the surest brightener of the complexion."
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