Born in
lush oases scattered in a barren desert landscape, Central Asia's
spectacular ikat fabrics reverberate with beauty, energy
and life. Intricate motifs in hazy patterns glow with scintillating
colors. Their textile artistry is created through a process
of dyeing and weaving called abrdandi or "banded
cloud." These chromatic experiments echo the ultimate mirage
in arid Central Asia, the reflection of clouds on water.
The
Malay-Indonesian term ikat, used in the west to describe
these fabrics, is derived from the verb mengikat, which
means "to bind, tie or wind around"(1). A technique
popular in many parts of the world, including Southeast and Central
Asia, Japan, and Yemen, ikat is created by binding threads
to form areas that will resist coloration. The more colorful and
complicated the motifs, the longer and more elaborate the binding
and dyeing process before the weaving of the cloth can begin.
Despite meticulous care in binding, resist dyeing inevitably results
in motifs with blurred edges, as the dying and weaving processes
cause unpredictable distortions.
Although
evidence for their earlier existence is scant, Central Asian ikats
emerged as a compelling art form during the region's urban renaissance,
which occurred in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Springing
from a long history of trade and traditions going back as far
as the fabled East-West trading path known as the Silk Road, the
most brilliant ikats were the result of complex inter-ethnic
cooperation. Muslim and Jewish artisans joined forces to create
these fabrics, which remain to this day a symbol of national identity
and pride.
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(1)
Johannes Kalter, ed., Uzbekistan: Heirs to the Silk Road (Thames
and Hudson, 1997), 216, Kate Fitz Gibbon and Andrew Hale, Ikat:
Splendid Silks of Central Asia: the Guido Goldman Collection (Lawrence
King Publishing in Association with Alan Marcuson Publishing,
1999),14.
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