Exhibition

Kaleidoscopic Dreamcoats: Central Asian Ikat Robes
Mull Gallery,
November 29, 2000 to December 2, 2002
Anne Bissonnette, Curator

  


  
Man's Robe

Probably from Afghanistan late 19th to mid 20th century
Warp-faced plain weave red and white silk warp, red cotton weft
Collar to hem: 53½"/135.9 cm
Cuff to cuff: 77"/195.6 cm
Kent State University Museum, Silverman/Rodgers Collection, KSUM 1986.97.3

Red and white alacha (striped robe) with applied zhiak (polychrome woven border). Lined in red Russian cotton with printed floral motifs and with red and yellow adras ikat on white ground. Given to Shannon Rodgers in London, England, by an Iranian princess.

 

Striped Robes

 

From at least as early as the medieval era, striped fabrics were extremely popular in Central Asia. The Turkic word alacha, which became the name for a striped robe, was first used to describe striped, warp-faced fabric in either cotton, silk, or mixed threads (1).

Because early Islamic practices prized humility, the wearing of entirely silk garments was frowned upon by some religious authorities (2). Less costly and concordant with Islam's early teachings, mixed silk and cotton fabrics were still being produced in the 19th century.

The finest traditional alacha came from Samarkand, in present day Uzbekistan, which was renowned for its cotton textiles (3). Sources from the 16th century mention that alacha were so popular that there was a bazaar in Samarkand dedicated exclusively to them (4).

* * *

(1) Kate Fitz Gibbon and Andrew Hale, Ikat: Splendid Silks of Central Asia: the Guido Goldman Collection (Lawrence King Publishing in Association with Alan Marcuson Publishing, 1999), 28, 203.
(2) Ibid., 31.
(3) Johannes Kalter, ed., Uzbekistan: Heirs to the Silk Road (Thames and Hudson, 1997), 216.
(4) Ibid., 216.

 

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