Man's Robe
Probably from Afghanistan late 19th to mid 20th
century
Warp-faced plain weave red and white silk warp, red cotton weft
Collar to hem: 53½"/135.9 cm
Cuff to cuff: 77"/195.6 cm
Kent State University Museum, Silverman/Rodgers Collection, KSUM
1986.97.3
Red and white alacha (striped robe) with applied zhiak
(polychrome woven border). Lined in red Russian cotton with printed
floral motifs and with red and yellow adras ikat
on white ground. Given to Shannon Rodgers in London, England,
by an Iranian princess.
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From at least
as early as the medieval era, striped fabrics were extremely popular
in Central Asia. The Turkic word alacha, which became the
name for a striped robe, was first used to describe striped, warp-faced
fabric in either cotton, silk, or mixed threads (1).
Because early
Islamic practices prized humility, the wearing of entirely silk
garments was frowned upon by some religious authorities (2). Less
costly and concordant with Islam's early teachings, mixed silk and
cotton fabrics were still being produced in the 19th century.
The finest traditional
alacha came from Samarkand, in present day Uzbekistan, which
was renowned for its cotton textiles (3). Sources from the 16th
century mention that alacha were so popular that there was
a bazaar in Samarkand dedicated exclusively to them (4).
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* *
(1) Kate Fitz
Gibbon and Andrew Hale, Ikat: Splendid Silks of Central Asia:
the Guido Goldman Collection (Lawrence King Publishing in Association
with Alan Marcuson Publishing, 1999), 28, 203.
(2) Ibid., 31.
(3) Johannes Kalter, ed., Uzbekistan: Heirs to the Silk Road
(Thames and Hudson, 1997), 216.
(4)
Ibid., 216.
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