Exhibition

A Dance of Light and Color: Embroidered and Brocaded  Garments of India 
Stagger Gallery, November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

Detail of man's coat 
Central India, possibly Ouid, c.1775-1825 
Silver and gold brocade woven with green, light blue and red silk 

Helen Ward Clark Costume Collection 
Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin, Ohio 
Gift of Mr. and Mrs. S. Clarence Ward, 1957, L 1995.17.117

Click on image for view of full coat

  
Metallic brocades
 
  

Brocades (kinkhad) of silver and gold are distinguished from others and called zari.  This coat pre-dates the invention of the Jacquard loom and its introduction to India in the 1920s. This indicates that a complicated loom called naksha was used and worked by two weavers simultaneously. When working with this loom a weaver was seated on a bench positioned above the warp threads. He would face the harness and pulled the weft threads to create the motifs. His colleague, seated at the other end of the loom, would mix the silk threads with the silver and gold threads. Like other famous metallic brocades, friction could cause abrasion and loss of metal. In times of financial crisis, one could always burn the textile to recuperate the metal. 

 

general information | collections | exhibitions | special events | group tours
membership | donations | press releases | museum store
ask the staff | care of clothing | dictionary of costume | site index
museum homepage |university home page | other links

Copyright © 2001 The Kent State University Museum. All Rights Reserved.