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Exhibition
A Dance of Light and Color:
Embroidered
and Brocaded Garments
of India
Stagger Gallery,
November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
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Detail of man's
coat
Central India, possibly
Ouid, c.1775-1825
Silver and gold brocade
woven with green, light blue and red silk
Helen Ward Clark
Costume Collection
Allen Memorial Art
Museum, Oberlin, Ohio
Gift of Mr. and Mrs.
S. Clarence Ward, 1957, L 1995.17.117
Click
on image for view of full coat
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Metallic brocades
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Brocades (kinkhad)
of silver and gold are distinguished from others and called zari.
This coat pre-dates the invention of the Jacquard loom and its introduction
to India in the 1920s. This indicates that a complicated loom called
naksha was used and worked by two weavers simultaneously.
When working with this loom a weaver was seated on a bench positioned
above the warp threads. He would face the harness and pulled the
weft threads to create the motifs. His colleague, seated at the
other end of the loom, would mix the silk threads with the silver
and gold threads. Like other famous metallic brocades, friction
could cause abrasion and loss of metal. In times of financial crisis,
one could always burn the textile to recuperate the metal.
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