Exhibition

A Dance of Light and Color: Embroidered and Brocaded  Garments of India 
Stagger Gallery, November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

Shawl (dupatta
India, Punjab, c.1950 
Rust khada cotton with orange and ivory silk floss (pat
embroidery in phulkari work. 

Helen Ward Clark Costume Collection Allen Memorial Art Museum, 
Oberlin, Ohio
Gift of Mrs. Keith Warner, 1962, L 1995.17.994 

  
Phulkari
work

  
The typical peasant style embroidery from the Punjab gets its name from the words "phul" and "kari" which translates into floral work. The earliest mention of this type of style is found in the 18th century. The beauty of this work is dependent on the evenness of the embroidery stitches. The motif seen here is called "bagh tara" and is a perfect example of pure diapering in phulkari work. 

The "bagh" design is a more elaborate development, no longer for peasant use. It is found in the Hazara district where the Jats have converted to Islam. This type of shawl is an important part of a woman's trousseau and is started early in a girl's life. Women and girls traditionally gather to embroider as they sing and learn from their elders the traditional motifs. This important social tradition of common work is called trinjhan.  Two or three pieces can be assembled to create a shawl. These shawls are an important symbol of conjugal happiness: at the death of a woman who's husband is still alive, her body is covered with these phulkari shawls to show that she was favored with a bountiful existence. 

 

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