Exhibition

A Dance of Light and Color: Embroidered and Brocaded  Garments of India 
Stagger Gallery, November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

Detail of an open-backed shirt (kanchali) 
India, Rajasthan, Pushkar, first quarter of the 20th century 
Red cotton embroidered and decorated with mirrorwork, pompoms and metallic threads 
Clothilde Collection, L1998.51.3 

Click on image for gallery view

   
The Choli

  

The tightly fitted short blouse worn under a sari is a choli, a garment that first served as bust support. The choli evolved as a form of clothing in the 10th century and the first cholis were only front covering; the back was always bare. The bodice seen here is decorated in the typical interlacing stitchery of Kutch, Kathiawar, and Sind which was first introduced by Arab traders in the 9th century. Kutch embroiderers use a hook to introduce the thread from beneath the ground fabric.  Designs are large and flat and, sometimes, small mirrors are added and couched down with the use of chain stitch.

 

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