Exhibition

A Dance of Light and Color: Embroidered and Brocaded  Garments of India 
Stagger Gallery, November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

Sari
India, 20th century 
Fuchsia silk with brown, green and ivory brocaded paisley motif on the edge and border (pallu) 
Kent State University Museum 
The Shannon Rodgers Collection, 
KSUM 1987.41.125 

Man's embroidered robe
North India, Kashmir, second half of the 20th century. 
Black Kashmir wool twill embroidered in an allover floral design with multicolored silk floss. Kent State University Museum
Gift of Jeannette Bromley,
KSUM 1984.35.2

  
Kashmir Embroidery
  

Needles dating from ca. 2500-1500 BC were found in the excavations of Harappa and Mohenjo-daro where the earliest traces of Indian civilization were uncovered. Since traditional Indian clothing was not cut and sewn, it is assumed that the needles were used to embellish textiles with embroidery. In India, the art of embroidery probably originated with agricultural and pastoral peoples, whose seasonal cycle of labor gave them time to practice and perfect their art. Most Indian embroidery today remains a highly accomplished folk art. Kashmir embroidery is an exception to the rule for, historically, it was produced for the royal court by skilled professionals.

The striking embroidery of Kashmir in far northern India is a highly specialized male trade. Traditionally, training begins at an early age. Boys begin with simple tasks, such as outlining motifs, and progress to more complex stitches as they gain skill. A finished piece of embroidery will have been the work of many hands. The two robes seen above are embellished in kashida work, which is usually done with silk floss on Kashmir wool. Kashida, a word derived from the Persian word "to draw", encompasses all the basic stitches of Indian embroidery: running, satin, chain and herringbone.

Embroidery is believed to have been introduced to Kashmir in the 15th century by Persian craftsmen. Persian and Chinese aesthetics are still apparent in Kashmir embroidery, but nature is the primary influence. The satin stitch, which originated in China, has been interpreted differently in various regions of India. Two of the textiles in the hallway are phulkari work embroideries from the Punjab. Although they also employ the satin stitch, their appearance is very different from the Kashmir embroidery seen here. One reason is religious: Kashmir was always subject to a more intense Muslim influence, while the Punjab was true to its Hindu origins.

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