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Needles dating
from ca. 2500-1500 BC were found in the excavations of Harappa and
Mohenjo-daro where the earliest traces of Indian civilization were
uncovered. Since traditional Indian clothing was not cut and sewn,
it is assumed that the needles were used to embellish textiles with
embroidery. In India, the art of embroidery probably originated
with agricultural and pastoral peoples, whose seasonal cycle of
labor gave them time to practice and perfect their art. Most Indian
embroidery today remains a highly accomplished folk art. Kashmir
embroidery is an exception to the rule for, historically, it was
produced for the royal court by skilled professionals.
The striking
embroidery of Kashmir in far northern India is a highly specialized
male trade. Traditionally, training begins at an early age. Boys
begin with simple tasks, such as outlining motifs, and progress
to more complex stitches as they gain skill. A finished piece of
embroidery will have been the work of many hands. The two robes
seen above are embellished in kashida work, which is usually done
with silk floss on Kashmir wool. Kashida, a word derived from the
Persian word "to draw", encompasses all the basic stitches of Indian
embroidery: running, satin, chain and herringbone.
Embroidery is
believed to have been introduced to Kashmir in the 15th century
by Persian craftsmen. Persian and Chinese aesthetics are still apparent
in Kashmir embroidery, but nature is the primary influence. The
satin stitch, which originated in China, has been interpreted differently
in various regions of India. Two of the textiles in the hallway
are phulkari work embroideries from the Punjab. Although they also
employ the satin stitch, their appearance is very different from
the Kashmir embroidery seen here. One reason is religious: Kashmir
was always subject to a more intense Muslim influence, while the
Punjab was true to its Hindu origins.
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