Exhibition

A Dance of Light and Color: Embroidered and Brocaded  Garments of India 
Stagger Gallery, November 4, 1998 to September 19, 1999
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

Detail of a man's jacket
India, Rajasthan, early 20th century
Cotton with violet, peach, red and black embroidery, black braid, mirrorwork and sequin appliqué; silk ikat inset at the shoulders

Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 
KSUM 1983.1.943

   
Court and Peasant Embroidery
  
The city of Lucknow is famous for gold and silver embroidery on silk velvets, satins and chiffons.  These metallic textiles are very heavy, and consequently, very expensive.  They were made into the waistcoats, caps, shoes, couch covers and elephant caparisons in demand at various princely courts.  Many of these courts disappeared when India was unified, and production was modified for a changing market.  Lucknow embroidered textiles and Benares brocades are literally worth their weight in gold.  When worn or tarnished, or in a financial emergency, they can be unraveled and melted down to recoup the value of the dowry.

Gold and silver embroidery is done with metal wires or threads in various thicknesses.  In India, gold thread is produced by gilding a piece of silver with a layer of the purest gold available.  The piece of gilt silver is beaten out into a wire, which is then drawn through successive holes in a steel plate until the wire is, literally, as fine as a hair.  The delicate wire is hammered flat and wound around a strand of silk similar in color to the metal.  The flexible thread that results can be used for weaving or embroidery.

Peasant style embroidery also utilizes gold and silver thread, although to a lesser extent than court embroidery.  The embroidery of Kutch, Kathiawar and Sind features interlacing stitchery in bright colored cotton or silk thread and mirrorwork, and uses metallic thread only as an accent.  Employing a technique introduced by Arab traders in the 9th century, Kutch embroiderers use a hook to introduce the thread from beneath the ground fabric to produce large ,flat designs in interlacing, darning, herringbone and chain stitch.  Sometimes, small mirrors are added and couched down with chain stitch.  The embroidery of Kutch, Kathiawar and Sind, like the phulkari work, and unlike Kashmir embroidery, is essentially a folk art owing nothing to court patronage.

 

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