| The city of Lucknow is
famous for gold and silver embroidery on silk velvets, satins and
chiffons. These metallic textiles are very heavy, and consequently,
very expensive. They were made into the waistcoats, caps, shoes,
couch covers and elephant caparisons in demand at various princely
courts. Many of these courts disappeared when India was unified,
and production was modified for a changing market. Lucknow embroidered
textiles and Benares brocades are literally worth their weight in
gold. When worn or tarnished, or in a financial emergency, they
can be unraveled and melted down to recoup the value of the dowry.
Gold and silver embroidery
is done with metal wires or threads in various thicknesses.
In India, gold thread is produced by gilding a piece of silver with
a layer of the purest gold available. The piece of gilt silver
is beaten out into a wire, which is then drawn through successive
holes in a steel plate until the wire is, literally, as fine as
a hair. The delicate wire is hammered flat and wound around
a strand of silk similar in color to the metal. The flexible
thread that results can be used for weaving or embroidery.
Peasant style embroidery
also utilizes gold and silver thread, although to a lesser extent
than court embroidery. The embroidery of Kutch, Kathiawar
and Sind features interlacing stitchery in bright colored cotton
or silk thread and mirrorwork, and uses metallic thread only as
an accent. Employing a technique introduced by Arab traders
in the 9th century, Kutch embroiderers use a hook to introduce the
thread from beneath the ground fabric to produce large ,flat designs
in interlacing, darning, herringbone and chain stitch. Sometimes,
small mirrors are added and couched down with chain stitch.
The embroidery of Kutch, Kathiawar and Sind, like the phulkari work,
and unlike Kashmir embroidery, is essentially a folk art owing nothing
to court patronage.
|