What:
Black Thigh-length Evening Coat
Label: "Charles James 47" hand-written in black ink on an ivory satin ribbon stitched to the right side seam (see image below).

Where:
699 Madison Avenue, New York

When:
1947

Who:
Worn by Jeanne Auerbacher (born 1898), mother of the donor. Mrs. Auerbacher was a buyer for the Oval Room of Dayton's, a department store in Minneapolis, Minnesota. She carried James' designs in the store and maintained contact with him.

How:
Black silk satin coat with a bright yellow silk faille lining. The coat has a distinctive collar standing up above the neckline and draped below. The coat has two welt pockets and closes with three hooks and eyes; one at the center front neckline, one on the inner collar, and one at the base of the collar where the coat overlaps. The sleeve is another distinctive sculptural feature created by a long dart at the head, one at the wrist and three elbow darts in back. The upper back portion of the coat is diamond-shape reaching the neckline and armcye. The coat is closed by the lining and its inner construction cannot be seen.

Credit:
Collection of the Goldstein Museum of Design, University of Minnesota
Gift of Margot Siegel
C1978.010.001

For more information on the collection of the Goldstein Museum of Design,
log on to goldstein.che.umn.edu