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What:
Black Trousers
Label: none
Possibly designed by Charles James
Where:
Possibly from New York
When:
ca. 1956
Drop-front pants were first incorporated in children's wear by James in
1956 and were applied to adult pants and shorts that year. The drop-front
style documented in Elizabeth Ann Coleman's The Genius of Charles James
has a wide arch across the hips, unlike the narrow drop-front panel of
the trousers presented here. James created short pants in 1938 and 1940,
draped pajama trousers/skirts in 1940 and 1944, dinner trouser ensembles
in 1956 and high-waisted trousers with a diagonal waistline as late as
1972.
Who:
Worn by actress and singer Marti Stevens (born 1931)
How:
Black wool flannel trousers with high waist. The waistband extends 7.8
cm/ 3 7/8" above the waistline all around except for the center front
where it extends only 6.4 cm/ 2 ½". The waistband has three
pattern pieces, is interfaced, boned five times vertically across the
waist and lined in black silk faille. The back trouser leg is in one part
with two buttocks darts. The front trouser leg is in two parts. The main
part has a long dart that is used to insert a drop-front flap. Added to
the main part and placed underneath the flap is a placket on which to
attach the 5 buttons and the zipper that reached to the top of the waistband.
The flap and upper part of the pants are lined in black taffeta. An inverted
pleat at the lower part of the side seam gives volume at the ankle.
Credit:
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection, gift of Marti Stevens
KSUM 1983.1.1878
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