What:
Black and Rust Day or Cocktail Dress
Label: none
Possibly a Charles James design by Samuel Winston
The cut of the bodice and sleeve, as well as the inner construction is akin to garments with this label.

Where:
699 or 716 Madison Avenue, New York (James) and 530 Seventh Avenue, New York (Winston)

When:
ca. 1952-1954, the years Charles James Services is under contract with the manufacturer Samuel Winston

Who:
Unknown wearer

How:
Black silk faille upper bodice in six pattern pieces. The top pattern piece creates a shawl collar and the front sleeve. It is partially interfaced in black twill cotton at the bodice and cuff but not at the sleeve. The bottom pattern piece curves from the center front, above the breast, into a point at the armcye then ends at a side seam. The three-quarter length sleeve flairs at the hem: although the facing is in one piece, a front and back triangular gusset are added to the sleeve piece. The back bodice piece is draped at the center back to create two folds on each side, has an underarm gusset and two elbow darts. The black faille is sewn to rust-colored wool flannel cut in two pieces: one above the waist, interfaced in black organza, and one below, interfaced in stiff black bobbinet tulle. The top connection between the faille and wool is cut along a jagged line. It is draped freely above a black silk faille narrow base that lies close to the body. A black silk satin bow is stitched under the collar at the center back. Like the upper wool piece, the lower wool piece goes from the center back to the center front. The pattern piece has two darts at the front for the hips. It curves from 1.3 cm / ½" at center back to a point 15.2 cm / 6" at center front and is interfaced with horsehair canvas quilted to black silk taffeta. The lowest part of the skirt is made of black faille and cut on the bias. It goes from center front to center back and has one tuck at the hip in front. A Petersham waist ribbon is stitched at the waist.

Credit:
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.410