What:
Chestnut Brown Cocktail or Evening Gown
Label: none
Attributed to Charles James
The sculptural nature of the gown, its cut at the bodice and sleeves, how it is interfaced with materials such as cotton muslin, horsehair canvas, layers of stiff bobbinet tulle, light tulle and "horsehair" braid is consistent with the execution of gowns from the James workroom.

Where:
New York

When:
ca. 1945-1957

Who:
Unknown wearer

How:
Chestnut-colored silk faille gown trimmed with black velvet. The velvet trim includes a 3.4 cm / 1 1/3" wide ribbon forming two bows at the center front neckline and a band beneath them as well as a 1.4 cm / ½" wide ribbon placed above each draped tier. The fine silk faille is interfaced at the fitted bodice with light cotton muslin. The neckline is wide at the shoulders and dips into a "v" in front and back. The short sleeves are extensions of the bodice's pattern. The skirt is wide at the hem (234 cm / 92 1/8" circumference) and 85 cm / 33 ½" long from the waist level. The yoke at the upper portion of the skirt is interfaced with horsehair canvas. Beneath the yoke, the skirt is entirely interfaced with chestnut-colored tulle. Beneath the yoke and until 45.7 cm / 18" above the hem, two layers of stiff bobbinet tulle are added as interfacing. 56 cm / 22" above the hem, three tiers of nylon bias-woven "horsehair" braid stiffening bands in different width are placed and often superimposed. The hem is also folded above a 7.6 cm / 3" black stiffening band. On the surface of the skirt are three tiers of fabric ruffles in increasing sizes where the hem of each ruffle is flipped up and stitched to the base. The anchoring allows small pocket-like structured to be created. The gown closes with a center back zipper and weighs 3 lbs.

Credit:
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.411