What:
Concert Evening Gown
Label: none
Documented Charles James design

Where:
699 Madison Avenue, New York

When:
First created in 1949 and produced until 1951

Who:
From the wardrobe of Mrs. Sloan Simpson. According to Elizabeth Ann Coleman, the first version was designed for Mrs. William S. Paley and also made for Mrs. William Randolph Hearst, Jr., Eleanor Lambert, Millicent Rodgers and Gloria Swanson in 1949. Ms. Coleman added that eight James clients acquired and wore this design to the finale of a March of Dimes benefit.

How:
Section 1: Bodice
The fitted sleeveless bodice is made of burgundy silk velvet, lined in ivory silk satin and boned vertically seven times and extending below the waist level. The front bodice molds the bust with a diagonal downward inverted pleat on the outer side of each breast and with a diagonal downward dart 9.5 cm / 3 ¾" long that points to the apex and ends at the center front on each side. The shape of the pattern piece above the bust and to the center front seam is made wider at the neckline and no longer molds the body. This adds fullness at the center front that is anchored at that point to a hidden triangle of skin-colored netting underneath. The shoulder seam (5.7 cm / 2 ¼" wide) of the pattern piece jolts out and is layered over a narrower shoulder strap.

Section 2: Overskirt
The asymmetrical draped overskirt of crimson Catoir silk satin is interfaced with ivory organdy. To support the heavier drape at the hips, an added interfacing of fine brown silk faille is added from hip to knee level everywhere except the left floating back panel. This panel is attached to the underskirt with alternating snaps and hooks and bars.

Section 3: Underskirt
The ivory silk faille underskirt serves as a lining until the white pleated organdy is affixed asymmetrically along the bottom (20.3 cm / 8" below the right hip and 66.7 cm / 26 ¼" below the left hip). Below this pleated panel, the underskirt is interfaced with two layers of stiff white bobbinet tulle quilted to the ivory silk faille underskirt. One 8.9 cm / 3 ½" wide ivory nylon bias-woven "horsehair" braid stiffening band is stitched to these layers and covers the very full right side of the underskirt. It is 388.6 cm / 153" long and circles the skirt 7 to 10 inches above the hem. A second band is 289.6 cm / 114" long and is placed along the hem below the first one. A silk faille lining covers the stiffened portion of the underskirt.

Credit:
Kent State University Museum
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.1.413