What:
Black Knee-length Evening Coat
Label: "Elizabeth Arden New York Paris"
Charles James design
Between 1943 and 1945, Charles James was the exclusive designer of custom-made clothes for the Elizabeth Arden Salon. Because the collar of this coat is very similar to another James' design produced under his own name in 1947 (seen on your right), this coat can be traced to James' work at Elizabeth Arden.

Where:
Elizabeth Arden Salon, 691 Fifth Avenue, New York

When:
ca. 1943-1945

Who:
Custom-made for the donor's mother at Elizabeth Arden in New York

How:
Black silk satin coat. The front is cut in three parts. The biggest part creates an upside-down inverted "L" piece: the bottom part covers the section between the princess line to the center front while the upper part covers the section from the center front to the side seam. This piece is folded at the center front and used to create an inner facing. The center front is not in a straight line: a cut is made on the inner facing at the waist and a gusset inserted. Above this gusset, the inner facing has two breast darts that are pointing down and a small pattern piece added at the neck. The princess line created by the "L" shaped piece extends above the waist to create the bust dart. The bodice is tucked at the center front neckline and the waist seam is pointed towards the hem at the front. The front collar is a separate piece attached to the bodice. The back of the coat is in two pieces: a tailored seamed back bodice with a large center piece with a shoulder blade dart and a smaller piece curving into the side seam. The skirt is in two parts with a princess line. The center piece has a buttocks dart. The tailored sleeve is in two pieces. The coat closes with a large hook and eye at the neck and three smaller hooks and bars at the waist. The lining is made of ultraviolet blue silk satin. No views of the inside construction are accessible as the lining is closed at the hem. No heavy interfacing can be felt.

Credit:
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Robin Hill Muzzy (Mrs. Richard W. Muzzy)
KSUM 2001.25.1