What:
Red Knee-length Cocktail or Evening Gown
Label: none
Possibly a Charles James design executed in the workroom of Marguery Bolhagen in New York. The fabric, similar to the Concert gown, and pattern are in line with James' work while the execution has slight variations that could point to the Bolhagen workroom. This dress belonged to Charles Kleibacker who purchased the Abstract/ Four-Leaf Clover gown from Bolhagen for The Ohio State University's collection. Charles Kleibacker recalls that Bolhagen, a dressmaker employed by Mrs. Hearst, who was also a client of James, "was trying to help out Charles James whose business went up and down and might not have had a workroom in New York at this point."

Where:
New York

When:
Between 1949, because of the fabrics and design, and 1961, the time when James was without a workroom or studio.

Who:
Probably worn by Austine Hearst as her name is written on the seam allowance of the zipper.

How:
The fitted bodice and circular skirt are made of crimson Catoir silk satin while the short sleeves and center front arrow-shaped modesty piece are made of burgundy silk velvet. The bodice has two pattern pieces: one front piece, with one tuck anchored at the shoulder and another at the armcye; one back piece, with one tuck at the shoulder. The waistline is diagonal to accommodate an asymmetrical panel above the skirt. The upper bodice is not interfaced while the skirt has a layer of black non-woven Pellon®. The bodice has a peach-colored satin lining detached from the crimson satin outer bodice between the modesty piece and the shoulder seam. The finished side of the lining gives to the reverse of the crimson satin outer bodice. The seam allowances and the back of the peach-colored satin can thus be seen when the center back zipper is opened, a feature atypical to other James evening gowns in this exhibition. The lining is boned seven times and extends below the waist level. There is no Petersham ribbon and, while the vertical seams are finished by hand, two rows of machine stitches finish the armhole, two other atypical features in James' work. A 30 cm / 11.8" crimson Catoir silk hem facing lines the inside of the skirt.

Credit:
Mount Mary College, Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Gift of Charles Kleibacker in honor of Sister Aloyse Hessburg, 2004.03.83

For more information on the collection of the Mount Mary College costume collection,
log on to www.mtmary.edu/fashion_hcc.htm