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What:
Infanta Cocktail or Evening Gown
Label: none
Charles James design by Samuel Winston attribution
Where:
699 or 716 Madison Avenue, New York
When:
1952
Who:
Worn by Sally Van Der Meersch
How:
Sleeveless dress with shoulder straps and a sweetheart neckline edged
in black lace. The bodice and hip peplum are made of black lace over ivory
silk satin. These two layers are pleated at the center front then applied
to a black silk faille base that is interfaced with black non-woven Pellon®
and stiff bobbinet tulle. The peplum is attached to the dress only at
the waist and center back. The bodice is lined in ivory silk satin and
boned eight times vertically to a point 7 cm / 2 ¾" below
the waist. Four layers of tulle are attached at hip level to a structural
underskirt. The tulle colors alternate between dark brown, or faded black,
to white. The underskirt is sewn at the waist and consists of a black
silk faille outer layer folded over a black cotton plain weave skirt.
The cotton layer has many 12.7 cm / 5" wide nylon bias-woven "horsehair"
braid structural bands superimposed horizontally and machine stitched
to it yet out of sight to the viewer. The dress closes at center back
with a zipper. A brown or faded black satin ribbon creates a bow with
long streamers stitched at its base to the center front hem of the peplum.
Credit:
The Ohio State University Historic Costume & Textiles Collection
OSU 1985.106.23
For
more on the OSU Collection, log on to costume.osu.edu
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