| Born in Japan in 1942,
Rei Kawakubo studied philosophy with a specialization in eastern and
western aesthetics. She entered the fashion world as a free-lancer,
launched her label, Comme des Garçons, in 1969, and in 1973
established her company in Tokyo. Kawakubo rocked the fashion establishment
with the controversial collection she presented in Paris in 1981,
and has been creating shock waves ever since. Her irreverent interrogation
of convention has left the western world piqued and perplexed, yet
fascinated by the seemingly distorted mirror in which she reflects
its mores.
Kawakubo believes that
beautiful clothes do not need to be pretty. She creates distressed,
broken, missaligned shapes expressive of anarchy. Challenging
our complacency, she attacks, one by one, the manifestations of
good grooming that simulate incorruptibility. Sweaters with holes,
padded distorted garments and mismatched fabrics suggest that beauty
may not necessarily reside in the places our culture believes. Kawakubo's
adventurous and cerebral approach to clothing can be disturbing
to eyes trained in the western tradition to see beauty in classical
harmony and completeness.
The eastern viewpoint
is different. In Japan the search for shibusa, ultimate beauty,
embraces imperfection as a measure of perfection in creative endeavors.
Torn or broken shapes in nature inspire a special affection. A rusted
iron kettle, lichens on rocks or fallen blossom have sabi, the mark
of wear and tear left randomly by time on objects. The reverent
contemplation of sabi evokes wabi, a humble, melancholic repose.
Wabi is permeated with the sad recognition that with the achievement
of perfection comes the beginning of decline and decay.
The love of the worn
and ragged contained in sabi and wabi inform Kawakubo's world. Her
work introduces Japanese concepts unfamiliar to European aesthetics.
In the west, this approach has been labeled "deconstructive" because
it parallels a trend in intellectual discourse that has surfaced
in last few decades. Kawakubo takes clothing apart to renew it.
With boldness and an inquisitive eye, she continues her quest to
dismantle the tyrannical rules of fashion and to unleash the imagination.
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