| Born in Hiroshima in
1938, Issey Miyake studied design in Tokyo before working in Paris
and New York during the 1960s. He returned to Tokyo in 1970 where
he founded the Miyake Design Studio. A citizen of the world, Miyake
refuses to be the voice of a single culture. His unique global outlook
encompasses a multiplicity of design inspirations. Often labeled as
neither eastern nor western by the fashion press, the beauty of his
innovative work is that it is both. Yet, because of Miyake's unquestionably
eastern design philosophy, his garments are far more Japanese than
they might appear.
Miyake's vision is shaped
by the complex and ageless Japanese search for shibusa, ultimate
beauty and harmony. The simplicity, humility, meaningfulness, tranquility,
commonness, spontaneity and irregularity inherent in shibusa are
timeless qualities that do not reveal themselves all at once. Shibusa
can be achieved only by a maker who, after decades-if not a lifetime-of
practice, is an undeniable master of his craft. For Miyake, the
quest is relevant today. Attuned to the tools of his metier, he
explores the technical possibilities of the newest fibers, weaving,
dyeing and manipulation methods. His designs link the complexities
of contemporary life to traditional aesthetics. Their unsuspected
depths spark the imagination.
The unique modernity
of Miyake's work is due in part to his fusion of two diametrically
opposed conceptions of the relationship/dissociation between the
body and clothing. After centuries of wearing the kimono, the Japanese
came to view clothing as a thing of independent shape and beauty
separate from the body. Traditional garments emphasized continuity
rather than change, and when change did occur, it was usually expressed
in surface embellishment. The creation of a traditional kimono requires
a thorough understanding of the materials and processes involved,
as is the case in Miyake's designs. Like the kimono, his garments
respect the inherent qualities of fabrics and ignore gender, age
and stereotypical body shapes.
Miyake learned the opposite
conception, a close relationship between body and clothing, when
he trained in the ateliers of Givenchy, Laroche and Geoffrey Beene.
The European worldview places an ideal body at the center of a continually
changing structured world. Garments tend to change shape as well
as embellishment. From this heritage, Miyake reclaimed the body
and inserted it into his design equation. He refuses, however, to
impose a shape on the body. Instead, Miyake opens a dialogue with
the wearer by creating garments that are works in progress waiting
for the form and movement of an individual body to complete. Unlike
most other designers, Miyake acknowledges that the final results
are not his to dictate.
Miyake is unique. Embracing
the social disruption and technological advances of contemporary
life, he forged his own approach. Few other designers have distanced
themselves from trends as he has, or have granted themselves the
freedom to differ from the norm. In today's fashion world, with
its insatiable appetite for change, Miyake is faithful to his vision.
His garments combine the electricity of the modern world with the
spirit of traditional Japanese art. They embody volume, movement,
freedom and energy.
|