
Young child's
brocaded bodice
Possibly from the United States of America, c.1740s
Ivory silk brocade with green, red and gold floral motifs.
Trimmed in gold braid, lined in blue linen and whaleboned.
Laces up the center back.
Helen Clark Ward Costume Collection, Allen Memorial Art Museum,
Oberlin College
Museum purchase, R.T. Miller, Jr. Fund, 1948, KSUM L1995.17.1715
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Child's
"stays" (corset)
Possibly from the United States of America, c.1775-85
Linen stays with back lacing. Triangular tabs at hips to facilitate
motion. Quilted and whaleboned.
Kent State University, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, Warnaco Archives,
KSUM 1983.3.1
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This tightly
fitted bodice was worn by a toddler beyond the slip gown stage of
infancy. Until the early 20th century, young boys up to 4-6 years
old were dressed like girls in the long skirts typical of adult
women's wear and were thus said to be "in petticoats"
at this age. Visual distinction between the sexes was provided by
fit, trimming and decoration, headgear, and the presence of jewelry-coral
necklaces and rattles being auspicious favorites. Boys did not wear
panniers (side bustles) and might be portrayed holding miniature
swords, according to their rank. The stiff stays, low necklines
and fitted sleeves worn by children during this period did not allow
much freedom of movement.
Few items were
created exclusively for children during this period. Many young
children's garments were equipped with "leading strings"
at the shoulders or hanging sleeves that could serve the same purpose
of controlling the child's motion. "Pudding" caps with
padded band were also worn to protect children from head injury.
Boys graduated to men's wear when they reached the "breeching"
stage and, unlike girls, could then discard their stays. Girls often
retained leading strings on their gowns well into their teens as
an outward sign of their parents' tutelage.
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Cream satin
slip gown with trim
Possibly from England, c.1760-1780
Infant's front opening christening slip gown with detachable shoulder
straps and set-in sleeves with cuffs. The semi-fitted bodice has
vertical tucks at the side fronts and center back where it is
opened from the waist to the neck and is closed with a drawstring.
The opulent silk satin is trimmed at center front, hem and sleeves
with silk fly fringe, scrolling braid and bows.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM
1983.1.1
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Cream satin
slip gown with embroidery
Possibly from England, c.1760-1780
Infant's front opening christening slip gown with detachable shoulder
straps and set-in sleeves with cuffs. Silk satin, tucked at the
side fronts and center back bodice, cream silk embroidery in a
floral pattern at the center front, hem and sleeves.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM
1983.1.2
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When the custom
of swaddling infants began to decline towards the end of the 18th
century, the highly decorated "long stay" and swaddling
sets applied by the wealthy on special occasions to the outer surface
of the tightly wrapped infant were put aside. The first examples
of "slip" gowns intended especially for the christening
ceremony appeared in the mid-18th century. They were a more elaborate
version of the everyday slip gown that was worn under the swaddling
bands for the first 2 to 4 months, and as the main garment after
the bands were removed, or if they were not used. The gown opened
in the front or back and was closed with ties. Unusually long to
protect the feet from the cold air, the gown was worn until the
infant could walk. Quilted petticoats, caps, cradle covers and bed
hangings were added for warmth. During the 19th century the length
and decoration increased, as the child's gown-and the family's status-could
be elegantly displayed in the nurse's arms. Baby carriages in which
infants could lie down were not used until the 1870s.
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Boy's printed
cotton dress
United States of America, Ohio, Massillon, c.1808-1811
Young boy's brown cotton dress made of coarsely printed fabric
dating from the fourth quarter of the 18th century. Gathered on
drawstrings at the neckline, high waistline and twice at each
sleeves. Tucked twice at the hem both for decoration and to allow
for growth.
Made for Ben Mowry, born in 1808.
Collection of the Massillon Museum, Gift of Ami Inman, KSUM L00.14.3
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Embroidered
slip dress of cotton mull
United States of America or England, c.1800-1810
Infant's sheer white cotton mull slip dress with lace insertions
and a variety of floral and Neoclassical motifs such as wheat
sheaves and Greek key patterns in Ayrshire embroidery.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM
1983.1.54
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Linen was used
for children's clothing from an early date, as it was readily available
and could be boiled when laundered. Because clothing was washed
infrequently and soap was a luxury, the linen was often printed
or colored to reduce the visible signs of dirt. Early 19th century
fashions were influenced by the rise of Neoclassicism. The political
ideals of the French Republic inspired women's sheer white muslin
gowns with high waistlines, short sleeves, deep necklines and restrained
decoration, but these styles were also reminiscent of the high-waisted
children's dresses that first appeared in the 1790s, preceding the
adult version. Sheer white muslin was a natural choice for the followers
of Rousseau's cult of simplicity, who believed in his vision of
childhood purity, but it was impractical for active children, neither
durable nor easy to keep clean. The light fabric also suited Rousseau's
and John Locke's theories of "hardening" children's bodies
by keeping them scantily clad. Muslin was a costly elitist import
during the 18th century, but became more popular in the 19th century
thanks to wider availability and lower cost.
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