Exhibition

Centuries of Childhood
Alumni Gallery, September 27, 2000 to September 31, 2001
Anne Bissonnette, Curator
  

  
Children's garments from the last half of 18th to first quarter of 19th century
  

  

Young child's brocaded bodice
Possibly from the United States of America, c.1740s
Ivory silk brocade with green, red and gold floral motifs.
Trimmed in gold braid, lined in blue linen and whaleboned.
Laces up the center back.
Helen Clark Ward Costume Collection, Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin College
Museum purchase, R.T. Miller, Jr. Fund, 1948, KSUM L1995.17.1715
  

 

Child's "stays" (corset)
Possibly from the United States of America, c.1775-85
Linen stays with back lacing. Triangular tabs at hips to facilitate motion. Quilted and whaleboned.
Kent State University, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, Warnaco Archives, KSUM 1983.3.1
  

 

This tightly fitted bodice was worn by a toddler beyond the slip gown stage of infancy. Until the early 20th century, young boys up to 4-6 years old were dressed like girls in the long skirts typical of adult women's wear and were thus said to be "in petticoats" at this age. Visual distinction between the sexes was provided by fit, trimming and decoration, headgear, and the presence of jewelry-coral necklaces and rattles being auspicious favorites. Boys did not wear panniers (side bustles) and might be portrayed holding miniature swords, according to their rank. The stiff stays, low necklines and fitted sleeves worn by children during this period did not allow much freedom of movement.

Few items were created exclusively for children during this period. Many young children's garments were equipped with "leading strings" at the shoulders or hanging sleeves that could serve the same purpose of controlling the child's motion. "Pudding" caps with padded band were also worn to protect children from head injury. Boys graduated to men's wear when they reached the "breeching" stage and, unlike girls, could then discard their stays. Girls often retained leading strings on their gowns well into their teens as an outward sign of their parents' tutelage.

 

 

Cream satin slip gown with trim
Possibly from England, c.1760-1780
Infant's front opening christening slip gown with detachable shoulder straps and set-in sleeves with cuffs. The semi-fitted bodice has vertical tucks at the side fronts and center back where it is opened from the waist to the neck and is closed with a drawstring. The opulent silk satin is trimmed at center front, hem and sleeves with silk fly fringe, scrolling braid and bows.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM 1983.1.1
  

 

Cream satin slip gown with embroidery
Possibly from England, c.1760-1780
Infant's front opening christening slip gown with detachable shoulder straps and set-in sleeves with cuffs. Silk satin, tucked at the side fronts and center back bodice, cream silk embroidery in a floral pattern at the center front, hem and sleeves.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM 1983.1.2
  

 

When the custom of swaddling infants began to decline towards the end of the 18th century, the highly decorated "long stay" and swaddling sets applied by the wealthy on special occasions to the outer surface of the tightly wrapped infant were put aside. The first examples of "slip" gowns intended especially for the christening ceremony appeared in the mid-18th century. They were a more elaborate version of the everyday slip gown that was worn under the swaddling bands for the first 2 to 4 months, and as the main garment after the bands were removed, or if they were not used. The gown opened in the front or back and was closed with ties. Unusually long to protect the feet from the cold air, the gown was worn until the infant could walk. Quilted petticoats, caps, cradle covers and bed hangings were added for warmth. During the 19th century the length and decoration increased, as the child's gown-and the family's status-could be elegantly displayed in the nurse's arms. Baby carriages in which infants could lie down were not used until the 1870s.

 

 

Boy's printed cotton dress
United States of America, Ohio, Massillon, c.1808-1811
Young boy's brown cotton dress made of coarsely printed fabric dating from the fourth quarter of the 18th century. Gathered on drawstrings at the neckline, high waistline and twice at each sleeves. Tucked twice at the hem both for decoration and to allow for growth.
Made for Ben Mowry, born in 1808.
Collection of the Massillon Museum, Gift of Ami Inman, KSUM L00.14.3
     

 

Embroidered slip dress of cotton mull
United States of America or England, c.1800-1810
Infant's sheer white cotton mull slip dress with lace insertions and a variety of floral and Neoclassical motifs such as wheat sheaves and Greek key patterns in Ayrshire embroidery.
Kent State University Museum, Silverman-Rodgers Collection, KSUM 1983.1.54
  

 

Linen was used for children's clothing from an early date, as it was readily available and could be boiled when laundered. Because clothing was washed infrequently and soap was a luxury, the linen was often printed or colored to reduce the visible signs of dirt. Early 19th century fashions were influenced by the rise of Neoclassicism. The political ideals of the French Republic inspired women's sheer white muslin gowns with high waistlines, short sleeves, deep necklines and restrained decoration, but these styles were also reminiscent of the high-waisted children's dresses that first appeared in the 1790s, preceding the adult version. Sheer white muslin was a natural choice for the followers of Rousseau's cult of simplicity, who believed in his vision of childhood purity, but it was impractical for active children, neither durable nor easy to keep clean. The light fabric also suited Rousseau's and John Locke's theories of "hardening" children's bodies by keeping them scantily clad. Muslin was a costly elitist import during the 18th century, but became more popular in the 19th century thanks to wider availability and lower cost.

 

 

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