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The history
of children's clothing reflects the attitude of adults toward
childhood, as, until very recently, children had no voice in
the matter. Prior to the late 18th century, children were dressed
as miniature adult, in garments which limited their physical
freedom and imposed societal restrictions on their behavior.
From birth, infants were tightly wrapped in swaddling clothes,
which immobilized their limbs. Toddlers were put into smaller
versions of their parents' clothing, a practice which reflected
the prevailing view that childhood was an undesirable prelude
to adulthood, to be gotten through as soon as possible.
Until the
social revolution of the late 18th century, rigorous and sometimes
violent child-rearing practices encouraged early conformity
to adult standards of behavior. Parenthood was not necessarily
a positive experience when multiple uncontrollable births were
the norm and women frequently died in childbirth. Infant mortality
was high; less than half the children born survived until age
5, and half of the remainder never reached age 10. Offspring
were often seen as "imps of Satan" or the result of original
sin. Because the average life span was only 30 years, children
were forced into early adulthood, usually between the ages of
7 and 9, depending upon their social status. Early maturity
was a necessity since working class 5 year-olds could be employed
14 hours a day to help support their families.
In opposition
to common practices, philosophers and educators such as Erasmus
(c.1466-1536), Ascham (1515-1568), Komensky (1592-1670) and
John Locke (1632-1704) wrote important treatises on the education
of children, condemning the use of fear and violence in teaching,
and proposing age-appropriate methods and respect for the child.
The movement for children's rights gained momentum and international
recognition in 1762 with the publication of Jean-Jacques Rousseau's
best-selling and controversial novel Émile. In his writings,
Rousseau depicted childhood as a purer state of being to be
cherished instead of despised and embraced for its potential
for happiness and playfulness. He went further than other reformers
and characterized children as individuals in their own right.
The emancipation
of the child started a revolution in dress that would eventually
lead to greater freedom and informality in clothing for both
adults and children. In the late 18th and early 19th centuries
true children's wear emerged. This form of dress bore no resemblance
to adult clothes and aimed to provide comfort and convenience
for the young. Styles included the light-colored cotton "skeleton
suit" for boys and the uncorseted high-waisted dress for girls,
both of which were to have a strong impact on later adult styles.
The pendulum
swung back to discomfort in the 1820s when children were again
subjected to the whims of adult fashions. The industrial revolution
enabled a rising middle class to practice a new level of ostentation,
in which children were again used to indicate the social status
of their parents. Victorian materialism put girls back into
crinolines and bustles, and both young boys and girls into stays,
long hair and numerous petticoats. Older boys wore tunics, short
pants, trousers and a variety of military-style uniforms, which
at times provided ease and comfort. However the emphasis was
no longer on the child's welfare and needs. Children were dressed
in elaborate garments and hats, high-heeled narrow shoes, and
heavy, stiff, dark fabrics until the end of the 19th century,
despite the opposition of dress reformers.
During the
19th century child labor laws and social welfare programs began
to remedy the numerous wrongs inflicted on children, but the
next great social change did not occur until the 20th century
when the First World War triggered a relaxation of manners and
simplification of dress for all age groups. An interest in psychology
in the 1920s brought about revised attitudes toward children
and their development. At the same time, a new fashion for sports,
fresh air and sunshine, and the growing ready-to-wear industry
contributed to the adoption by adults of simpler, more comfortable,
active styles that had been devised for children. The cult of
youth would become the dominant social trend of the later 20th
century and sportswear would blur the differences between children
and adult styles.
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