When you make
lace, you manipulate thread to make "stitches," the
smallest unit in a piece of lace. The result is a decorative fabric
that is characterized by open spaces adjoining complex combinations
of individual stitches. You can make a lace stitch with a needle
and thread, or by crossing threads held on bobbins -- the two
primary techniques for hand-made lace. Both developed at different
points in the sixteenth century, and by 1600 both were used to
decorate furnishings and fashion. As an industry, hand-made lace
was especially vulnerable to the whim of fashion as well as to
increasing mechanization. The first machine nettings appeared
in 1764, developed from modifications to the stocking frame invented
by William Lee in 1589, but it was not until 1786 that a suitable
product resulted. Subsequently many hand-worked bobbin and needle
lace motifs were appliquéd onto machine mesh grounds. Hand-made
lace ceased to be a viable commercial product in the aftermath
of World War I, although interest in lace-making as a craft persists.
Machine-made laces continue to find commercial viability in both
fashion and home furnishings. No one technique of lace-making
is necessarily exclusive, so there are many laces that combine
both needle and bobbin motifs.