Exhibition

 

Lace: The Art of Needle and Bobbin

Higbee Gallery, March 23, 2007 - January 6, 2008

Jean Druesedow, Curator

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lace Pattern Silk

European, about 1730

L at CB: 52”

This example of a lace patterned silk, now cut in the shape of the back of an ecclesiastical chasuble, was woven on a draw loom and was most probably intended for a rich garment.  It was the development of these silks that influenced the design of laces in the 1720s and 1730s.  As more naturalistic flowers, leaves and scrolling patterns began to appear in the silks, the lace designers began to adapt these ideas for their own use.

Kent State University Museum

Transferred from the Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin, Ohio, R. T. Miller, Jr. Fund, 2006.11.12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Dress: Open Robe, Petticoat and Stomacher

English, about 1765 - 1770

The fabric for this dress was made in the Spitalfields area of London where the silk weavers and merchants worked.  It is an ivory silk moiré brocaded with multi-colored silks in a floral pattern.  This dress had been re-made in the late eighteenth century to conform to newer fashions.  It was restored to a silhouette more in keeping with the date of the textile, using evidence in the fabric as a guide.

Kent State University Museum

Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 1983.1.24abc

 

 

Shown with:

Bobbin Lace Flounce, Non-Continuous Lace

Flemish, late 17th century motifs; later 18th century ground

Linen

85” x 2 ¾” tapering to 2”

Extremely fine threads make up the motifs in this example which are worked in mirror image from the center of the piece out to the ends. The drochel ground, developed in the Brussels’ laces of the 18th century, was worked around the motifs.

Kent State University Museum

Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 1983.1.1334

 

 

Engageantes (Sleeve Ruffles)

German, Saxony, mid-18th century

Whitework on white linen.

Kent State University Museum

Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 1983.1.1318ab

 

 

 

            OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

 

 

Day Dress                                                               

English, about 1780

Purple and white iridescent silk with stripe and small floral spot pattern draped à la Polonaise. 

Kent State University Museum

Gift of Ross Trump, 1995.68.1

 

 

Shown with:

Petticoat

English, 18th century 

Blue silk satin, quilted.

Kent State University Museum

Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 1983.1. 3

 

 

Embroidered Fichu

German, Saxony, 18th century

Linen

L at CB: 13”

Even Flemish dealers purchased whitework imitating Brussels bobbin lace from Dresden merchants, so this example most probably was made in Saxony.  The dense pattern utilizes satin stitches that give extra coverage to some sections of the pattern.    Under magnification it appears that this piece is entirely pulled fabric work with no threads actually removed.  Fichus were worn to fill in the open neckline of 18th century fashionable dress.  In this example, because the embroidery stops abruptly in a straight line rather than diminishing down to decorative points, it is possible to assume that the ends were intended to be tucked into the neckline.

Kent State University Museum

Silverman/Rodgers Collection, 1983.1.2174