Of Men & Their Elegance

Exhibition

Of Men & Their Elegance
Higbee Gallery
Second Rotation: April 25 to November 23, 2003
First presented: July 3 to November 17, 2002
Anne Bissonnette & Dr. Debbie Henderson, Curators

Morning, Frock and Tail Coats

Store Representation of Garments (recto)
With Fabric Swatches (verso)
Europe or America, 1916
Colored prints
Anonymous loan

By the twentieth century, the riding coat had been transformed into the tail or dress coat and was the most formal of jackets. The knee-length frock coat, as seen in the excised fashion plates and in the center of this plate, was second in formality and was followed by the morning coat, as seen worn twice in this fashion plate.

* * *
Morning Coats

Jouerai-je?
Illustration by Pierre Brissaud, France, 1914
La gazette du bon ton. Nº 5, 3eme année, juin 1920, plate 35.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Gray Chiné Wool Morning Coat
"Scheyer Custom Care Ready to Wear," United States of America, 1928
The morning coat began it's life as an informal garment but by the time this suit was worn,
it had become permissible for "full dress."
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Sally Boggs Taft
KSUM 1995.30.24a

* * *
Frock Coat

Pardessus de vigogne bleu de France
Illustration by J. Van Brock, France, 1914
Journal des dames et des modes. Nº 60, 3eme année, 1914, plate 136.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Hunter Green Wool Frock Coat
United States of America, late 19th-early 20th century
Although the square-fronted frock coat had re-appeared in the early part of the nineteenth century as an
informal garment worn as "half dress," by the time the coat in the pictures above was worn it had become acceptable
for the most formal "full dress" occassions.
Kent State University Museum
Gift of Mr. And Mrs. J. Robert Green
KSUM 1984.21.1a

La redingote, ou le retour aux traditions
Illustration by Bernard Boutet de Manvel, France, 1920
La gazette du bon ton. Nº 1, 3eme année, février 1920, plate 2.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Le mariage mélancolique
Illustration by Ch. Martin, France, 1921
La gazette du bon ton. Nº 2 , 4eme année, 1921, planche 10.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

* * *
Tail Coat

Habit de soirée. Gilet de piquéblanc. Chaussures de soie blanche.
Illustration by Bernard Boutet de Manvel, France, 1912
Excised fashion plate from:
Costumes Parisiens (probably part of the Journal des dames et des modes), 1912, plate 2.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Black Wool Tail Coat and Trousers, Ivory Silk Faille Vest and Satin Tie
Probably from Cleveland, Ohio, 1876
Worn by Charles William Bingham for his wedding to Mary Pappy Payne on 6/8/1876.
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of Mrs. John A. Lee
WRHS 71.38.6

Black Patent Leather Pumps with Gold Buckles
"Martin & Martin," Probably from Cleveland, Ohio, late 19th-early20th century
Worn by Fred R. White
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of Mrs. Fred R. White
WRHS 46.644

Accessorized with a White Cotton "Arrow" Shirt and a Black Silk Faille Top Hat
Hat: United States of America, c.1904
Silverman/Rodgers Collection, KSUM 1983.1.1924
Shirt: United States of America, late 19th-early 20th century
Lent by the Helen Clark Ward Costume Collection,
Allen Memorial Art Museum, Oberlin, Ohio
Gifts of Mr. And Mrs. George Tallmon Jones
KSUM L1995.17.154 (82.125)

Installation collar, cuff links, studs and gloves.

La première imprudence
Illustration by George Barbier, France, 1921
La gazette du bon ton. Nº 2 , 4eme année, 1921, planche 15.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

SPONSORED BY:

The National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers

and