Of Men & Their Elegance

Exhibition

Of Men & Their Elegance
Higbee Gallery
Second Rotation: April 25 to November 23, 2003
First presented: July 3 to November 17, 2002
Anne Bissonnette & Dr. Debbie Henderson, Curators

1830s to Late Nineteenth Century
Paintings

Portrait of George O'Brian Wyndham,
F.R.S. & F.S.A, Earl of Egremont
Europe, c.1834
Oil on canvas
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM no number
framed

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Portrait of a Young Man with a Diamond Brooch
United States of America, c. 1830-50
Color on parchment
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0189
7 1/8" x 8 1/8" framed

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Portrait of a Young Man on Dark Blue Background
Gaglieri, Italy, c. 1830-50
Color on ivory
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0318
3 ¾ " x 3 ¾" framed

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Portrait of a Young Man in Red Military Suit
Probably from Europe, c. 1830-50
Color on ivory
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0196
5 1/8" x 5 7/8" framed

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Portrait of a French Naval Officer
Gent Charles (born 1795), France, c. 1830-1850
Oil on canvas
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0832
26" x 21 ¼" framed in oval window

Born in Versailles on March 29th, 1795, Gent Charles was a student of the artist Pernot and had his work displayed at the "salon" in Paris in 1822 and 1824. A portrait artist, he depicted in this tableau a French naval officer in full dress.

His uniform of dark wool is punctuated with incised metal buttons and metal passementerie in the form of braids, ribbons and fringed epaulettes. The braided cording he wears on his left shoulder is indicative of his status as a royal "aide-de-camp," better known in the English-speaking world for its acronym "A.D.C." The height of his high closed collar is reminiscent of previous styles; what differs in this period is the progressive replacement of the white stock for a cravat of black silk satin covering a stiff horsehair band. His hairstyle has lost its neo-classical length and unruliness but sideburns have gained greater importance.

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Portraits of Man and Woman
England, c. 1836
Oil on canvas
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0705ab
Man: 13 ¾" x 15 5/8" framed.
Woman: 13 1/8" x 15 ½" framed

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Portraits of Seated Man and Woman in Profile
United States of America, late 1840s - early 1850s
Oil on canvas
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.4.341ab
11 ½" x 14 3/8" framed

Nineteenth century menswear was dominated by dark colored coats and light colored shirts, stocks, vests, breeches, pantaloons and trousers right into the second third of the century. The definition of masculinity had changed considerably from the previous century. Seldom were bright colors and silks worn except in the vest. As time passed, pants were progressively made in the same color and fabric as the coat and jewelry was restricted to a watch chain, ring and studs or pins to hold the cravat in place.

In these series of portraits, one can see the transition to this more subdued fashion. For the brilliant colors and decorations of days gone by, one need only look at military wear. In civilian and military life, hairstyles, sideburns and moustaches also were becoming highly sophisticated and expressed a high degree of individuality.

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Left: Portrait of Dr. Richard E. Chapman
Right: Portrait of Mary Chapman
United States of America, c. 1850-60
Oil on canvas
Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0833 and KSUM 1983.004.0716

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