Of Men & Their Elegance

Exhibition

Of Men & Their Elegance
Higbee Gallery
Second Rotation: April 25 to November 23, 2003
First presented: July 3 to November 17, 2002
Anne Bissonnette & Dr. Debbie Henderson, Curators

Breeches, Pantaloons & Trousers

* * *
Breeches

Illustration of French Styles in 1750
From:
Albert Kretschmer and Carl Rohrbach, Die Trachten Der Völker: Vom
Beginn Der Geschichte Bis Zum 19. Jahrhundert, in 104 Tafeln Zusammengestellt,
Gezeichnet und Lithographirt. (Leipzig: J.G. Bach's Verlag, 1882), plate 96.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Blue Wool Frock Coat
and Brown Velveteen Knee Breeches
Probably from the United States of America, 1775-85
Breeches with the standard construction consisting of a wide drop-front or "falls" closing and an ample seat designed for comfort. Knee breeches could be attached with a band below the knee or, in earlier version (see "Illustration of French Styles in 1750" above), be cut shorter and covered with the upper edge of the stockings. With the influence of English fashions, breeches are increasingly tighter in front while the back remain fuller. These breeches are and made of such materials as corduroy, velveteen (cotton velvet), knitted jerseys and buckskins.
Gift of Mrs. George W. Denison.
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
WRHS 65.124.1ab
Installation stockings, shoes and neck stock

White Linen Ruffled Shirt
United States of America, late 18th century
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of Miss Marguerite Chapman
WRHS 61.82.8
Click here for a complete view of the frock coat
Click here for a complete view of the shirt

* * *
Pantaloons

Left:
"Redingote dégagée, Bottes à Revers" worn with pantaloons reaching the top of the boots.
Excised fashion plate from Costume Parisien, 1806, plate 768.

Middle:
"Costume de Ville, Négligé" showing tightly-fitting pantaloons reaching below the calves.
Excised fashion plate from Costume Parisien, 1808, plate 923.

Right:
"Chapeau de paille bronze. Cravate de soie. Redingote à deux rangs de boutons; collet pareil. Gilet de piqué. Pantalon à mille raies" showing tightly-fitting pantaloons with instep traps.
Fashion plate from Journal des dames et des modes, 16 septembre 1821, plate 38.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

In her book, The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900, Norah Waugh states discusses the tight fitting nature of pantaloons and their use:

"Pantaloons were generally worn until the middle of the nineteenth century and replaced breeches for formal wear. They fitted closely, like tights. Early versions were often cut with one seam only, down the outside leg, but by 1810 with two leg seams. Until 1817, the pantaloons were calf lenght, and then, they extended to the ankle with a side slit which buttoned. Straps under the instep kept them taut, but for evening wear the stockings had to be visible. Moschettos were a variation of pantaloons with gaiters attached. They did not survive the 1830's." (1)

(1) Norah Waug, The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 (New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1964), 116.

Beige Corduroy Pantaloons
United States of America, 1790-1820s
Tighter-fitting pantaloons with narrow drop-front or "falls" construction with ample seat remaining from breeches construction. The pantaloons shown above were meant to be buttoned in the area between the knees and the top section of the boots. As in the fashion plate on the left, the pantaloons were then inserted in the boots. Unfortunately, this pair was not buttoned, as it would have stressed the fabric.
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of Mrs. A. W. Lamb
WRHS 46.165

Brown Wool Morning Coat with Velvet Revers
Europe or America, 1810-1830s
Kent State University Museum
Purchase, National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Foundation Fund
KSUM 1997.29.2
Click here for a complete view of the frock coat

Reproduction felt hat by Gretchen Fenston
Installation shirt, stock, boots and gloves

Lord Elgin Instructing His Protégé
Gavin Hamilton (1723-1798), England, c. 1790-1798
Oil on canvas
All three men in this picture are wearing tight-fitting pantaloons. On the right, Lord Elgin's stockings can be seen between the hem of the pantaloons and the edge of his fashionable low hessian boots while both his protégé and groom have pantaloons tucked into French top boots.Silverman/Rodgers Collection
KSUM 1983.004.0708
44 ½" x 35" framed

* * *
Trousers

Right:
"Chapeau à haute forme et petit bord. Habit couleur brou-de-noix;
gilet de piqué dessus et dessous. Pantalon de drap"
showing slightly looser-fitting trousers wider at the hem.
Fashion plate from Journal des dames et des modes, 11 mars 1821, plate 11.

Left:
"Chapeau à haute forme et petit bord. Habit de drap, à boutons dorés. Cravate à côtes. Gilet de poil de chèvre.
Pantalon de coutil, froncé en haut et en bas. Gants jaunes. Bottes à éperons"
showing loose-fitting trousers with instep traps and pleated waist, also known as "Cossacks."
Fashion plate from Journal des dames et des modes, 17 juin 1821, plate 25.

Kent State University Museum Library Collection

Discussing the use of trousers, Norah Waugh states that:

"trousers appeared very early in the century for informal day wear, and were accepted for informal evening wear from 1817. By 1825 they were in general use, though pantaloons were still considered correct evening wear until the middle of the century. At first trousers were cut so tight they were barely distinguishable from the pantaloons, and like them were only calf lengh but cut the same width at the bottom as at the calf. By 1817 they reached to the shoe, and were worn with straps until the middle of the century -- sometimes with gaiter bottoms, 1820-55. Through the century they were cut narrow with slight variations. In the 1870's and 80's the leg were sometimes tight at the knees and expanded below. In the late 80's the bottom of the leg began to be turned up. From 1840 all trousers were cut with a center front fly" (2).

(2) Norah Waug, The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 (New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1964), 116.

Tan Heavy Twill Cotton Trousers
United States of America, early 1820s
Belonged to Samuel Wheelock Parmely (9/5/1806-12/15/1880).
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of George W. Hurlburt Jr.
WRHS 61.77.1

White Double-breasted Linen Coat
United States of America, Vermont, c.1820
Kent State University Museum
Purchase, National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers Foundation Fund
KSUM 2001.33.1

Tan Felt Hat
United States of America, 1820-1830
Lent by The Western Reserve Historical Society
Gift of E. W. Ison
WRHS 47.280

Installation shirt, stock and boots

SPONSORED BY:

The National Association of Men's Sportswear Buyers

and