Brown
Printed Cotton Closed Robe
Unknown maker, made in the United States of America, 1783.
Made of British fabric from ca. 1775-1783.
Recorded by the donor as being made of material brought from
Calcutta, India, by a sea captain to the grandmother of
Louise Tift Montgomery, and believed to be among the
first pieces of calico brought to the this county.
Collection of the Cornell Textile and Costume Collection, no.
58.
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Some of the
pieces displayed offer the visitors a glance at the changing lives
of many gowns of the period, as well as an understanding that
information transferred along with an artifact is not always accurate.
A brown printed
cotton gown from 1783 from Cornell University and a Prussian blue
printed cotton
gown from ca. 1805-1810 from the Connecticut Historical
Society were used alongside a child's
ca. 1810-1811 frock of possible Ohio provenance
and similar fabric (see images below). This
juxtaposition further impresses upon the visitor the value of
textiles and their constant reuse, which was typical during the
period and is a concept first introduced through the Spitalfields
open robes made of 1750s textiles and presented
in their last altered forms dating from ca. 1780s-early 1790s.
The child's
frock was made of ca. 1775-1785 fabric for Ben
Mowry (born 1808) to wear before he was put in breeches
(typically at age 4 or 5). Although further research is needed
to confirm that Ben was born or wore the frock in Massillon, where
the garment was found, two portraits of the Worthington daughters,
one of Sarah
Ann Worthington (age 8) dated 1808,
and one of Mary
Tiffin Worthington (age 11)
dated 1809, also portray similar garments being worn at this time
(see images below). The surviving frock and those seen in portraiture
follow the new high-waisted or empire style popular in women's
wear, which is visible in the nearby display of a woman's Prussian
blue printed dress. In addition to the reuse of the fabric and
the demonstration that female styles were used to dress young
boys, brought out by the Ben Mowry frock, the grouping of garments
enables the matter of provenance to be discussed further through
the study of the Cornell 1783 gown seen above.
When faced with the chronic lack of provenance affecting most
artifacts, one is always interested in items that are accompanied
by detailed information. The cataloguing information for the Cornell
gown mentions that the fabric was brought from Calcutta, India,
by a sea captain to the grandmother of Louise Tift Montgomery
in 1783. It further remarks that the textile is believed to be
among the first pieces of calico brought to the United States
of America.(1) However, further research by Elsie McMurray
into the textile and the cut of the gown refutes part of this
story. One of the most important pieces of evidence against the
textile's Indian origin lies in the presence of three blue threads
in the selvage of the fabric. The weaving of these blue threads
in the selvage was mandated from 1774 to 1811 by a British act
imposed on "cloth intended for export if a drawback, or refund,
of the tax levied on printed cloth was to be claimed."(2)
McMurray's research into the print's popularity further narrowed
the time frame to 1775-1785 and, through the 1783 re-establishment
of trade after the War of Independence, concluded that the date
given by the donor was plausible.(3) Although part of the
information can be proven wrong by the presence of the three blue
threads which indicate British origin and the importation of calicos
to America as far back as 1721, the donor's claim that the sea
captain had returned from India or even that he purchased the
fabric there could still be true since textile goods were international
commodities which were brought to the American continent from
all over the world. Donor information is relevant and extremely
important but, as proven in this case, it should not be believed
unquestioningly. To obtain knowledge that is more accurate, researchers
must question the written sources as well as pay close attention
to the artifacts.
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(1) Elsie McMurray indicates that "In 1783, 'calico' was
one of many words used by English speakers to refer to cotton
cloth-printed, painted or plain-imported from the East or produced
in Europe." See Elsie McMurray, "American Women's Dresses
-1780-1900: Identification and Significance of 148 Extant Dresses"
(Ithaca, New York: Cornell University Media and Technology Services
Resource Center, 2001, computer file), 24.
(2) Florence M. Montgomery, Printed Textile: English and American
Cottons and Linens, 1700-1850 (New York: Viking Press, 1970),
34.
(3) McMurray, 30.
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