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The
exhibition surveys 19th century Indian and European shawls.
To highlight their intricate patterns, twenty-three shawls are displayed
flat on easels. An additional twenty shawls are draped on
mannequins to show how these prized textiles were worn. The
exhibition traces the west's fascination with Kashmir shawls beginning
in the late 18th century and demonstrates their use as both a practical
outer garment and as a status symbol. Cross-cultural influences
between east and west are explained and the complexity of various
methods of weaving is illustrated with close up photographs of the
shawls on display.
Shawl
weaving was a prestigious profession in India, and was reserved
for men. It was extremely time consuming: two Indian
weavers, sitting side by side at the loom, could take up to three
years to produce a top quality shawl, the price of which might be
equivalent to that of a house. When western women started
their love affair with these Indian imports, European weavers attempted
to produce a similar product at a lesser price, a quest which resulted
in the invention of the Jacquard loom.
In
the first half of the 19th century, Europeans copied the designs
of Indian shawls. One of the towns where the shawls were produced
was Paisley, Scotland, whose name became synonymous with both the
shawls and the Asian teardrop or pinecone motif which decorated
them. By the mid 19th century, European aesthetics came to
dominate the design of the paisley shawls, and Indian weavers were
forced to imitate western patterns and to adapt their traditional
weaving techniques to compete in and international market.
Paisley shawls fell from popularity in the 1870s, when the proved
incompatible with the silhouette of the bustle.
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