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The art
and science of building relies on both the imagination and on
the materials at hand. Just as architects and engineers consider
the strengths and limitations of building materials, Isabel
Toledo gives attention to the nature of the fibers used in a
textile, and to its structure and weight. From her observations,
she developed a principle called liquid architecture to describe
the way pliable textiles of various weights cascade into folds,
and contour the human body with grace and elegance.
The study
of the nature of different fabrics enables her to create unusual
garments. In the case of the multi-tiered
gown, she uses fluid jerseys on the upper portions and a
stiffer, heavier fabric on the lower portion. The combination
results in a change of volume that affects the way the garment
falls. The opposite use of fabric and structure can be found
in a gown with a matte jersey skirt
attached to a silk taffeta bodice. There, tension is anchored
at the shoulders, which allows the sleeves to take flight. Were
the fabrics of the bodice and skirt interchanged, gravity would
insure far different results.
In some
cases, Isabel conceives of garments in terms of masonry archetypes,
as in a crepe jersey dress composed
of a column-like skirt resting on a rounded pedestal of
various fabrics. The strong unyielding shape of a classical
marble column loses its rigidity when made of cloth. Although
the architectural concept is integral to the garment, the nature
of the materials transforms it into something fluid and far
from monumental.
Isabel Toledo
delights in the subversive use of elements borrowed from other
fields. These stimulate and inspire, giving her work a different
perspective. The results are timeless and defy categorization.
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