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Clothing
can seduce both the viewer and the wearer. It is the physical
layer between ourselves and the world, and can cast shadows
both ways. Though interpretation is blurred by individual perspective,
clothing nonetheless communicates thoughts and emotions. It
can psychologically transform and define us, and at the same
time, physically react in symbiosis with our bodies.
Isabel Toledo's
work embraces this visceral approach to mind and body. She creates
sensual garments with the ability to draw strong physical and
emotional responses. While the man-bra,
which was first designed for a female impersonator, modifies
the bust, its accompanying slip conceals
to reveal the object of desire. Both garments shock by emphasizing
unmentionable naturally hairy regions of the human body. The
cut of the slip eliminates elastics, bulky fasteners and gathers,
while allowing for fit, expansion and comfort. In it form follows
function: the extended hip yoke sections open at the center
front to permit dressing, then cross over and attach at the
back for closure. The gradual layering of sheer fabric creates
a stable hem and an elongated triangle that slims the lower
torso and accentuates the pubic area. The play of fabrics becomes
a game of light and shadow, a new take on an erotic tradition.
In many
of Isabel's garments, the shadows fabrics cast on the body create
a tantalizing cloud of seduction. Diaphanous fabrics such as
lace, sheer jersey, silk gazar and chiffon are used not only
for effect, but also for the way they feel on the body, a crucial
factor for Isabel. In the donna blouse
the graphic pattern of the lace covers the wearer's body like
intricate tattoos on the skin. Part poetry, part biology, the
convoluted pattern is also reminiscent of the curvilinear maze
of body hair, a pet subject that Isabel likes to present in
witty and stylish ways, as in the case of the pubic
hair bikini. In it, as in the padded
organdy ensemble, Ruben's surreal shadow can clearly be
seen. The unconventional use of organdy and the play with light
and volume are hers, while the hieroglyphs of black thread on
the batting are transpositions of Ruben's squiggles.
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