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Strong shapes
are a Toledo trademark. Ruben sculpts bizarre anthropomorphic
figures. Isabel uses cloth to emulate a fantastic variety of
creatures. Their search for plasticity and volume ranges over
the entire natural world.
Disguising
the body, the cocoon jacket is reminiscent
of a shell-like carapace. Although Isabel creates with no pre-determined
ideas, the taffeta's volume suggested the form of an exoskeleton.
In this jacket the wearer becomes aware of the occasional caress
of the fabric and the space between the body and its covering.
This combination of sensuality and sense of distortion is also
present in the packing dress. By
refusing to restrict her designs to silhouettes that are slender
and flattering, Isabel gives herself and her clients greater
freedom. To counterbalance extravagant shapes, Isabel will use
familiar fabrics such as denim and jersey. While her sophisticated
volumes are linked in spirit to the couture world of Balenciaga,
her American roots enable her to consider production ease, practicality
and comfort.
Accentuation
of the body's shape in another route she follows. The red
denim jacket is cut and quilted to obtain a stereotypical
feminine silhouette. The batting-padded hips, linked to the
quilting process as well as to historic precedents, give the
illusion of a smaller waist.
Conceived
outside the norm yet known for its fine workmanship, Isabel
Toledo's work is hard to categorize. Her designs reflect an
ongoing investigation, the ultimate goal of which is longevity
rather than novelty, individuality rather than predictability.
Stimulated by each other's creative energy, Isabel and Ruben
Toledo cause us to ponder where art begins and fashion ends.
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