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Chinese
Robes from
The Kent State University
Museum's Collection
By Erin Harvan
Art Museum Internship, Spring 2001
Kent State University Museum
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Chinese Symbolism
Symbolism
is an important part of Chinese culture and serves to relay a
message via a piece of art work, pottery or even a robe. The symbols
found on Chinese robes indicate to the viewer the status of the
individual who would have worn the garment. Symbolism denotes
social standing, moral messages, and also told historical and
legendary stories. The "Twelve Symbols" used on the
emperor's robes were present during every imperial dynasty from
the Han (206 BC-AD 220) to the Ming (AD 1368-1644). The Ch'ing
or Qing Dynasty (AD1644-1911), also known as the "Dragon
Throne", elevated the symbol of a dragon, which was part
of the "Twelve Symbols", to the main symbol used on
imperial robes. Some of the "Twelve Symbols" are also
found in other types of robes but they can have different meanings
depending upon who the robe was made for. For example, the number
of dragons on a robes indicates a higher or lower official of
the imperial court. The origins of the "Twelve Symbols"
are vague but they seem to relate to a time when the emperor made
sacrifices in honor of his people at the imperial altars. The
sacrifices were made during specific times during a year which
coincided with the equinoxes and solstices. The emperor would
wear specially prepared robes with the embroidered "Twelve
Symbols" to make these sacrifices.
Robe is above
is KSUM 1983.1.760
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Sorry,
no pictures available at this time
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The Sun, the Moon, and the Constellation
The
sun, the moon and the constellation symbolized the light and wisdom
of the emperor shining upon the world. The first three symbols
of the series are celestial and relate to the measurement of time.
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The Rock or the Mountain
The
rock or the mountain stand for the earth and clouds, the latter
producing rain that bring benefits to the world.
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The Fu
The
Fu is categorized as the symbol of distinction. It is represented
by two chi characters presented back to back
and appearing defined as two blue and black lines. The fu is connected
to the winter solstice and represents the
prince and his ministers working together. Detail seen above from
KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Dragon
The
dragon symbolizes the adaptability of the emperor and his willingness
to change laws according to the needs
of his people. This could be due to the link the dragon has with
the changing of the seasons. The dragon is a very important symbol
associated with the spring and symbolizes transformation and productive
force. In the spring the dragon ascends to the skies, and in autumn,
it buries itself in the watery depths. It covers itself with mud
at the autumnal equinox, and emerges in the spring, thus announcing
by its awakening the return of nature's energies (Williams 131).
The Chinese dragon was on every court robe and the dragon itself
was a symbolized the emperor as well as a imperial power. The Chinese
dragon robe varied in color depending upon the rank of the official,
and the number and placement of the dragons on the robe also changed
with rank. On a robe the dragon is placed opposite the fu and correlates
with the sun's rising and setting points on the solstices. Detail
seen above from KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Axe-head
The
Axe-head is a symbol of the emperor's power over difficult situations,
life and death, times of war and famine. Detail seen above from
KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Flowery Creature
The
flowery creature may represent a constellation called "Red
Bird" which was located in the southern hemisphere
and was visible from late spring through summer. It symbolized the
cultural accomplishments of the emperor. Detail seen above from
KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Water Plant
Water
is always represented on the hem of a robe. Emerging from this symbol
is the water plant. The water plant can be another symbol for water
and winter. Detail seen above from KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Sacrificial Vessel
The
sacrificial vessel is associated with metal and is also called a
cup. The cup symbolizes the emperor's ability to pacify any rebellion
that may arise with courage. Detail seen above from KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The Flames
Flames
were used in daily activities such as firing pottery and cooking.
Each time fire was used it renewed the imperial power of the emperor.
Fire also symbolizes the summer solstice. Detail seen above from
KSUM 1985.38.31.
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The
Grain
Grain
is the basis of all food, and as part of the "Twelve Symbols"
symbolizes that the emperor is the mainstay for the people. Detail
seen above from KSUM 1985.38.31.
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Crane
The
image of a crane with its wings out-stretched and one leg raised
up is a symbol of longevity. This longevity symbol when combined
with a spotted deer and the pine is known as the 'prolonged life'
design (Hanyu 15). The crane was also represented on civil officials'
robes serve to depict rank throughout the different Chinese dynasties.
The bird was a symbol of literary elegance and, therefore, an appropriate
creature to designate civil officials who had gained their position
through examination based on the classics of the Confucian canon.
Detail seen above from KSUM 1983.1.816.
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Geometric Patterns
Geometric
patterns are used as borders or as bands along garments for added
decoration. Two common patterns are the meander pattern and the
key pattern. One of the oldest pattern types is the swastika. In
China the swastika became a Buddhist symbol for luck sometime after
AD 200. It is also the shortened form for the number ten thousand,
and this indicates longevity (Chung168).
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Bats
The
bat in China is the symbol for happiness and joy. It is occasionally
represented in a very ornate manner and can be mistaken for a butterfly.
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Butterfly
The
Butterfly is a popular symbol in Chinese embroidery. It is the symbol
of summer and joy. Detail seen on the right from KSUM 1983.1.816
and left from KSUM 1983.1.1938AB.
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Water
Motif
The
water motif was very popular on Chinese garments and is always found
on the bottom portion of a robe. Diagonal stripes represent the
depths of the waters. At the front and back and on either side of
a garment, a mountain can be found which seams to emerge from the
foamy waves. The mountain is said to represent an ancient belief;
China believed that the earth was a land mass surrounded by four
oceans. Detail seen above from KSUM 1983.1.816.
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